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1) Skip pricey hotel breakfasts. If breakfast isn't included in your hotel rate, head for a corner cafe instead. For small splurges, I suggest Ladurée on the rue Royale in the city's heart and Angelina on the rue de Rivoli. Both serve breakfast.
2) It's fine to ask for tap water. By French law, all restaurants are obliged to bring you a "carafe d'eau" if you ask for one. Bottled mineral water only boots up your bill, and soft drinks are pricey.
3) Drink house wine. In France, these are usually quite good. And happily, more and more restaurants are offering wine by the glass and the carafe as well as by the bottle.
4) Picnic! It's a great way to save some money and also have the fun of visiting one of Paris's wonderful outdoor food markets. The Marche d'Aligre in the 12th arrondissement has great prices and is open every day but Monday.
5) Go ethnic! Paris has two large Asian neighborhoods—in the 19th arrondissement and the 13th arrondissement behind the Place d'Italie. Both of them teem with great-value restaurants, including one of my favorites, Le Bambou, which serves delicious, home-style Vietnamese cooking. Another Vietnamese gem is Au Coin des Gourmet, 5 rue Dante, 5th arrondissement. (Bonus tip: Asian restaurants are among the few in Paris to often offer buffet-style eating. The phrase to look for if your hoping to come upon a buffet is, a volonte, which roughly translates to help yourself.)
6) Skip restaurants with a view. They charge a premium. Go to places with good atmosphere but not necessarily great window views. Here are a couple of such romantic spots that won't be total wallet-busters: Josephine-Chez Dummonet, 117 rue du Cherche Midi, 6th: Just the kind of old-fashioned Paris bistro that's made for hand-holding on the Left Bank. Mon Vieil Ami, 69 rue Saint Louis en l'Ile, 4th: Delicious modern French bistro cooking at this stylish place on the pretty Ile Saint Louis. Walk home afterwards along the banks of the Seine. For both of these restaurants, reservations are recommended.
7) Lunch early. Plan to have your main meal at noon when many restaurants offer extremely good-value, prix fixe lunch menus.
Some of my favorite, "good buy" restaurants in Paris
(Find more in my book Hungry for Paris.)
Itinéraires, new, 5, rue de Pontoise in the Latin Quarter.—Talented young chef Sylvain Sendra has just moved to this pretty dining room from his tiny and very successful restaurant Le Temps au Temps in the 11th. Wonderful market-driven cooking, i.e. changes almost daily and follows the seasons.
Le Petit Pontoise, 9, Rue Pontoise in the 5th arrondissement—Friendly service, fair prices, delicious French bistro cooking.
Bistrot du Dome, rue Delambre, 14th arrondissement—This is the lower priced annex of the v. expensive Le Dome, one of the best fish restaurants in Paris.
Two other great picks:
Le Mesturet, 77 rue de Richelieu in the 2nd arrondissement.
La Ferrandaise, 8, Rue Vaugirard, 6th arrondissement.
EARLIER
Paris: An ace food blogger shares her perfect Parisian food day
Our Affordable Europe series.
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I agree with Mr. Lobrano's recommendation of Le Petit Pontoise, it is wonderful!!! Tiny restaurant on a tiny side street, no menus everything changes daily on a chalk board. Food, wine everything we tried was great!
Posted By Christine Reavis on July 10, 2008, 12:32 PM
Love it. Very helpful and useful information.It makes me want to go to Paris right now!
P.S. - I've been a few years ago and enjoyed it immensely.
Posted By Mary Padilla on July 11, 2008, 1:13 AM
I wonder if you can help me? I want to email Le Petit Pontoise restaurant in Paris to make a reservation for dinner. But I've been unable to find an email address for them. Do you have their email address?
Posted By Esther Greenfield on July 12, 2008, 10:32 PM
I disagree about the house wine. It's usually not very good, has been open for a while. Best to order is the Brouilly, a cool beaujolais.
Other gems: One great couscous restaurant is Chez Omar, 47, Rue Bretagne 75003 Paris, France +33 1 42 72 36 26. Great ambiance, good food,a special place.
Step back into the 1950s at Chez René 14, Boulevard St Germain
75005 Paris, France +33 1 43 54 30 23. Very old time French restaurant, steak, pommes de terre, etc. And here the house wine is actually good.
Best thing: Discover your own restaurant just wandering around.
Matthew Rose / Paris, France
Posted By MATTHEW ROSE on July 15, 2008, 4:25 AM
Hi, Esther,
Thanks for reading our blog.
Lucky you to be visiting Paris.
I’m afraid you’ll have to call Le Petit Pontoise
The phone is 011-33/1-43-29-25-20.
--Sean
Blog editor
Posted By Sean on July 15, 2008, 12:02 PM
Thanks. Even at the age of 64 when I should know better, I am nervous about calling France. Will bite the bullet.
Posted By Esther Greenfield on July 15, 2008, 1:12 PM
Hi, Esther,
Don’t be nervous! And if you are staying at a hotel, you could call them (their English might be better) and ask them to confirm the reservation. Or, you could email the hotel—though, in my experience, I never can be sure if people are answering emails and acting on them.
Have a great trip! I’m envious.
--Sean
Posted By Sean on July 15, 2008, 1:13 PM
It will be a wonderful trip this time - just meandering, even kayaking along a river near Sarlat, seeing the Percheron horses in an area called La Perche, seeing the chateaux for the first time in the Loire Valley, seeing the prehistoric cave art at Font de Gaume near Sarlat, and ending in Paris in a hotel that's actually inside of a hospital next door to Notre Dame. But, please don't be envious. Do what we did if you can: we've been saving for two years to do this trip in France (plus about 2 weeks in Spain.
I've figured out the time difference (Paris is 8 hours later) and as soon as I get my nerve up I'll call the restaurant. Thanks again. Esther
Posted By Esther Greenfield on July 15, 2008, 1:58 PM
Esther--
To go one step further, you can probably email your hotel, and ask if they would be kind enough to make the reservation for you. Provide them with your preferred time, date,number in party, and the phone number. And ask them to email you to confirm this has been done.
The Concierge or someone on staff usually will do this for you.
Posted By Coco Pazzo on July 16, 2008, 10:31 AM
Visited Paris at the end of March 2008 - it was a wonderful trip.
I sought out both Laduree and Angelina while I was there, and I can't recommend them enough! Although, I admit that I only had dessert at both places; didn't have room after that to try anything else :)
We rented an apartment in the Marais, and it made the trip more relaxing as well as cheaper. Breakfast every morning was from a local boulanger (still hot!); frequently dinner was also from local shops.
We did splurge one evening and ate an amazing meal at Nicholas Flamel, also tucked away in the Marais.
Posted By Barbara on July 16, 2008, 11:17 AM
The most memorable dinner we had while in Paris on our honeymoon was roasted chicken and a bottle of wine on a bench in one the courtyards of the Louvre with the moon coming up during the evening, and people wandering through.
Posted By Dave on July 16, 2008, 11:22 AM
Yeah, right...I'm going to Paris to eat chicken chow mein.
Posted By Bill on July 16, 2008, 11:24 AM
Personally I hit Relais de Venise (Porte Maillot) whenever I am in France. It has to be good if locals (20 deep) line up 30 minutes before the doors open.
It is also very simple dining. How do you like your steak cooked and what wine do you want? Those are about the only questions you will need to answer.
Posted By Doug on July 16, 2008, 11:36 AM
I am not the same Doug, but was also just about to recommend Relais de Venise. Doug is right about getting there early, though, we barely made it in for the first seating when we arrived 15 minutes early. There were people that arrived before it opened and waited another hour and a half to two hours before they were seated.
Posted By Different Doug on July 16, 2008, 12:24 PM
Have been to Paris 4 times and could not agree more with: 4) Picnic! It's a great way to save some money and also have the fun of visiting one of Paris's wonderful outdoor food markets. The Marche d'Aligre in the 12th arrondissement has great prices and is open every day but Monday.
Posted By Javier on July 16, 2008, 12:51 PM
The Hotel Dieu is in L'Hospital by Notre Dame. My family and I took my parents there about 10 years ago. What fun! Don't press the wrong elevator door -- you never know what you will find. The gardens are beautiful. The location is centralized so getting around is easy. Have fun -- I'm jealous.
Posted By Mary on July 16, 2008, 1:37 PM
Hopefully the food will be better than the french attitude of being rude and inconsiderate to tourists.
Of course since this is moderated you probably won't show it.
Posted By MOBADTHANGOOD on July 16, 2008, 1:42 PM
Thanks for the wonderful dining suggestions. We have visited Paris four times in the last few years. The first time we went was the first weekend of the US invasion of Iraq. The French folks we encountered were helpful and not at all what I had expected. They are reserved but polite and we had no bad experiences at all. We love Le Petit Pontoise and think of it as our little place. We rent an apartment in the Marais and feel like Parisians for a week! Can't wait to return and try these new suggestions.
Posted By Kathy on July 16, 2008, 2:23 PM
Most memorable meal I've ever had in Paris was a bottle of wine, a baguette, and a piece of cheese in the park below the Sacre Couer at sunset.
Posted By Matt on July 16, 2008, 2:25 PM
Le Regent on the Rue LaFayette is a good, reasonably priced Italian restaurant. I had to laugh, though. I ordered a side salad which was a plate of lettuce with an oil and vinegar dressing. They didn't ask me what kind of dressing I wanted but that was OK. I like oil and vinegara-based dressings. We had the house wine and it was very good. We ate breakfast and lunch at little bistros, sidewalk cafes, boulangeries, etc.
Posted By Susan on July 16, 2008, 2:35 PM
The French are friendly, the food is marvelous--just eat about anywhere that is convenient. The corner restaurant will probably be suitable. Even the sandwiches are excellent. We own an apartment in the 4th near the Place de la Bastille, and there are great bistros on three corners near our place. They are reasonably priced, the wine is good, and the servers are pleasant. My advice--get to know the restaurants in the neighborhood where you're staying--keep going to the same places, and talk to the personnel. You'll enjoy the experience and come away with a better appreciation of the French and the French way of eating, which is much better and healthier than ours. Jeanne
Posted By Jeanne on July 16, 2008, 3:01 PM
Going to Paris in October to celebrate my 40th (first trip with hubby and no kids) and this article has been printed and placed in my "Paris" folder. Can't wait - thanks for the wonderful tips!
Posted By JoAnn on July 16, 2008, 3:06 PM
Is it now safe for Americans to drink the tap water in France? When I visited (OK YEARS ago) it was not considered safe to drink it.
Posted By Michelle on July 16, 2008, 4:29 PM
Budget is the way to go, especially given the ruinous dollar/euro exchange rate, but once in a while it's fun to splurge. A good prix fixe lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant is more than just a meal - it is art and a memory for a lifetime. We were in Paris in early May and followed our own advice by lunching at Taillevent, Senderens, and the Tour d'Argent (the letter admittedly more for the view and the experience as the food seems to have declined since Terrail's demise). Live a little, spend a lot!
Posted By Albert Fairchild on July 16, 2008, 5:05 PM
We have gone to Paris 4 times in the past 6 years and I have never met anyone who was rude or arrogant. They are reserved. If they hear you try to speak French, will usually start speaking English and be very helpful. If you act like a pushy American they will "push back". I also hear negative comments from many Americans about the French. They are usually the ones that have never set foot outside the United States.
It's hard to get a bad meal in Paris. Any of the pastry shops on the Ile Sanit Louie are excellent. There is a restaurant that I found to be excellent, yet not too expensive and that was Chez Julien at the foot of Pont Louie Phillip on the right bank.
I will continue to travel to France every chance I get.
Posted By Jose Lopez on July 16, 2008, 6:04 PM
Paris is a great place for picnic, isn't it? I loved to pick up a baguette for lunch, along with a drink and a beautiful dessert (or two) from a bakery, and just sit on the grass near the Eiffel Tower with all the other picnic-ers. What a beautiful, interesting and enchanting city. Do you notice that the people who say that Parisians are rude are people who have never been there? I find nothing less than politeness everywhere each time.
Posted By Gary in California on July 16, 2008, 7:24 PM
Bill, chow mein is not a Vietnamese dish. It's Chinese.
That said, there is nothing wrong with eating ethnic food in a different country. I ate at a Vietnamese restaurant in Paris last summer, and it was excellent (as well as very affordable). They included wine with the dinner, which an unexpected but nice addition.
Every country has its own "flair" to any cuisine, even ones that are not their own. Close-minded travelers will only miss out.
Posted By Mary on July 16, 2008, 8:30 PM
You're recommending Angelina on the Rue de Rivoli like it's a run-of-the-mill cafe that you'd find anywhere in Paris when it's really a very high end patisserie that doesn't come cheap. While it's excellent, and I would recommend that any tourist who is in that neighborhood should stop in for one of their unbelievably good hot chocolates, it is not a substitute for an "ordinary" cafe in Paris and I would dare say it's much more expensive than getting breakfast in most hotels.
Posted By Mike McDonough on July 16, 2008, 9:41 PM
We were in Paris in late March 2008 and dined in two fabulous restaurants: la Obelisk restaurant in the Hotel de Crillon on the Place de la Concorde across the street from the American Embassy. The other restaurant was Taillevant, just a short cab ride away. Both were absolutely wonderful. Make reservations and go for a big lunch, that way you can just snack for dinner. Two Forks Up!!
Posted By Jeff on July 16, 2008, 9:45 PM
The French are rude and the tap water is not safe? In 35 years of traveling in France, I have never seen either one. Lopez said it well, except that I don't think the French are reserved and you can find great eating all over Paris, even where tourists rarely go.
Posted By nothingbutgood on July 16, 2008, 10:53 PM
While it has been several years since I have been to France, I have NEVER been treated rudely. The French have always been wonderfully friendly and helpful. Of course I speak French and I am not one of the obnoxious tourists who seems to think that if they only speak English more loudly they will be understood...
Posted By cathy on July 17, 2008, 9:00 AM
When you're from NYC, it's impossible to say that anyone else is rude. I grew up in France and have lived in NY since the early '70s. There's no comparison and the myths about the French being rude are, well, just myths. The good thing though is that the myth keeps a lot of otherwise obnoxious American tourists out of Paris and anytime there are fewer American tourists somewhere, that's a very good thing.
Posted By Mike on July 19, 2008, 6:20 AM
The French people were exceedingly wonderful, friendly and helpful. I love
Paris and have been there over 10 times and found each trip a new and
wonderful experience. I love the croissants at a little bakery on the corner
of Rue Opportune and Rue Jean Lantier...everything there is great.
Posted By Jasmine on July 21, 2008, 12:02 AM
I love Paris very much. Have visited twice and hope to go back. The entry from Barbara listed an apartment in the Marais area. How much did it cost to stay there for a week and what is the name. I love the Marais area.
Posted By Valerie on July 21, 2008, 4:37 PM
I have traveled extensively in Europe, Asia and the South Pacific for both business and pleasure. I love the beauty of Paris but the arrogance and rudeness of Parisian waiters as well as the often ridiculous prices are difficult to ignore. I speak just a little French and have never found the citizens to be "friendly and helpful" when I have tried to communicate in their language. As you can guess Paris is not my favorite European city. I'll take Rome and London any day!
Posted By Sherry on July 22, 2008, 11:57 AM
It was the end of May in 1988, my husband and I had come over from a military base in England to fulfill my lifelong wish to experience Paris. On a Monday afternoon after several hours in the the Louvre inhaling the magnificence, we walked out into the gardens, bought a loaf of bread and some cheese, and a bottle of water. I had an apple and an orange in my purse. And we collapsed on to the grounds and replenished ourselves with calories because we had been blown away by art. We were actually weak from experiencing so much beauty.
Posted By Beth on July 26, 2008, 2:49 AM
My husband and I have been to Paris twice in the last 2 years and have found the French people to be very pleasant and helpful. We always begin a conversation in French and if we can handle it, continue in our simple French. If not, they realize we are not that fluent and speak English if needed. The food everywhere is wonderful; even pizza in a tiny bistro on rue Vavin near Montparnasse was tasty as well as a salad with warm goat cheese and Rhone wine by the glass. We bought groceries at Monoprix and Franprix (I love to shop like the locals, esp cheeses and wines) to eat in the small apartments where we stayed. Our big meals were at lunch and the prix fixe was always a good buy. Can't wait to go back again.
Posted By Chris on August 1, 2008, 2:22 PM
Angeina is justifiably famous for their hot chocolate but their pastries are nothing to rave about, and their prices are steep, IMHO. And since the place has popped up in virtually every guide book and travel sites, the crowds can get thick. The place has been taken over by a chain but thankfully the chocolate chaud remains excellent. Service, waiting times - not so good.
Posted By Jacques on August 2, 2008, 4:19 PM
I am so glad I saw this article before we left for Paris! We made reservations and had a WONDERFUL dinner at Le Petit Pontoise on the 29th. It was small, charming, and the service was friendly and helpful. I can hardly wait to go back.
Posted By Eve M on August 6, 2008, 5:44 PM
I'd like to know more about these apartments for rent in the Marais!
Posted By susan on August 8, 2008, 8:33 AM