
It's leaf-peeping season!

What are some great websites for planning a trip?
The Vermont Department of Tourism has an excellent foliage page on its Web site, vermontvacation.com, which has up-to-date information on the quality of the leaves as well as lodging. Another great foliage site is run by Yankee Magazine, yankeefoliage.com. It features an interactive map updated with reports from readers, and a leaf blog by Jeff "Foliage" Folger, one of the most prolific foliage photographers in New England. Also, www.foliage-vermont.com has an active forum in which readers give updates on color in their areas.
When and where can you see the best color?
The general rule of thumb for Vermont is that the color starts getting good in mid-September, and the show is over by late October.
All that said, you should know that trying to predict when the color will be absolutely perfect is a loser's game, and frankly not necessary. Being overly preoccupied with chasing the elusive "peak" of foliage is a great way to spoil a trip—and takes away from all of the other things that make a fall weekend in Vermont so magical: harvest festivals, farm-stands, fresh-pressed apple cider, and sunny days of crisp mountain air.
The geographical variety of the state means there is a wide variation in color in different areas at the same time—and at any time you can find good color just by driving an hour north or south or heading up into the mountains (or down into the valley) depending on where you are. Finally, this season is already shaping up to be an unpredictable one because of all of the rain that we got in August—the trees are expected to hold onto their leaves a little longer, making late October still perfectly viable for some peak color in some areas.
The only essential piece of advice is: book now! Most lodgings are already full-up for Columbus Day Weekend (Oct 12-13), though because of the economy, it's not as difficult this year to still find space in mid-week and even in the first and third weekends of October. When making bookings, you'll have the most luck in the Northeast Kingdom—where color is well underway by mid-September. Later in the season, try basing yourself in the southeast corner of the state, either in the Brattleboro area or the Okemo Valley, which tend to have more available lodging than the middle and north-central areas.
What would a best-of-Vermont tour look like?
We actually have just such an itinerary in our book (forgive the shameless plug). Our perfect two-week tour (adjust as necessary) starts with two days in artsy Brattleboro in the southeastern corner of the state, taking in the monthly Gallery Walk and the Brattleboro Museum; continues north to visit the Grafton Village Cheese Company in Grafton, the Vermont Country Store in Weston, and Billings Farm in Woodstock; then heads deep into one of our favorite areas, the Mad River Valley, which has some of the most quintessential Vermont scenery in the state, and is a perfect area for hiking or canoeing.
From there, it's north to tour the Ben & Jerry's factory in Waterbury and go skiing in Stowe (or ride the tramway to the top of Mount Mansfield, the highest peak in the state); then up to Lake Champlain to visit the maritime museum, aquarium, and historic sites in the big city of Burlington; and down the valley to the college town of Middlebury and the nearby sites dedicated to poet Robert Frost. Finally, you finish out the circle 'round the state by driving south to see the maple museum and covered bridges outside Rutland, and the historic sites in Bennington, before heading back to Brattleboro, full of cheddar cheese, maple syrup, and happy memories.
Sometimes, during the height of tourism season, some of the main highways and roadways can get crowded, making the experience of driving in Vermont a bit stressful. Do you have any advice about going to less-well known destinations and yet having just as magical an experience?
As I mentioned, the Northeast Kingdom is always a safe bet for getting away from the crowds. But there are a couple of other areas that are less remote yet that, for some reason, don't draw the same number of tourists—whether because they don't have any obvious "sites" or ski mountains that have put them on the map as destinations. One of the state's best-kept secrets is the area known as the "Southwestern Lakes Region," along the New York border west of Route 7. Lake St. Catherine is one of the prettiest in the state, and the surrounding countryside is just classic rural Vermont, with country stores and churches at every turn.
Another area that tends to see less traffic is the "Vermont Piedmont" area, along known as the northern part of the "Upper Valley"—a hilly area in the east central part of the state centering around Fairlee and Corinth. Like other parts of Vermont, this area has seen a resurgence in agro-tourism, with all kinds of specialty farms and sugarhouses; and Route 5 along the Connecticut River is a classic fall foliage route.
Lodging is generally marked-up during the height of tourist season. Any creative suggestions for saving money on hotels or inns?
Foliage season sees big spikes in rates in Vermont, and you won't find any dirt cheap lodgings anywhere. But in fact, fall is not nearly as busy as winter ski season. Outside of Columbus Day weekend and the weekend on either side of it, lodgings are still competing for tourists, and you can find relatively cheap motel rooms if you are willing to book mid-week or slightly outside of peak foliage time (for example, late September or late October).
Vermont's emphasis on local businesses means that there are still many independent motels that work hard to undercut the chains and where you can still find a room under $100 in high season. Try around (but not in) ski resorts, for example around Killington, Stowe, and West Dover (Mt. Snow). Rutland is also a good city to look for less expensive rates—and it is perfectly located to jump off to the northern and southern sections of the Green Mountain State Forest, Middlebury, Manchester, and other attractions. Last but not least, two of our personal favorite "value" lodgings: the Old Red Mill in Wilmington (oldredmill.com), a friendly lodge with clean and comfortable rooms in the south-central part of the state; and the Latchis Hotel (latchis.com) in Brattleboro, which just went through a renovation of its 1930s Art Deco building and has an attached movie theater with discounted admission for hotel guests—but still offers $95 rooms in foliage season.
Skiing. What's the most common mistake out-of-state visitors make when planning ski trips to Vermont?
The biggest mistake people make is the head right to the "biggest" mountains with the biggest names—especially Killington, Sugarbush, and Mount Snow. While those mountains have earned their reputation for some of the most exciting and difficult terrain in the northeast, and its understandably tempting to want to test yourself against them, they can also be a frustrating exercise in standing around in lift lines or spending half the day trying to make it across a bewildering trail map for those one or two perfect runs.
Meanwhile, there are many mountains in Vermont that will more than test your skiing ability and offer a much more satisfying overall skiing experience—especially if you are not all about the double-diamonds. Mountains like Burke Mountain and Jay Peak, both in the Northeast Kingdom, are virtually deserted in winter, and both boast lots of natural powder. Mad River Glen, just up the valley from Sugarbush, has a cult following among skiers for its uncompromising terrain full of rocks, moguls, and glades, with a full half of its trails for experts. On the other side of the spectrum, families would do better to leave the big mountains behind and head to Smugglers Notch or Ascutney, which offer a range of terrain for all abilities as well as excellent kids programs. Finally, in a welcome contrast to the sometimes impersonal "mega-resort" feeling of Mt. Snow and Killington, Stowe Mountain has kept it real, with an authentic village full of real people and businesses that make the time off the mountain just as enjoyable as the time on it.
Tell us about your guidebook.
Thankfully we hit the ground running when we produced the first edition of Moon Vermont because we had recently completed Moon New England (another shameless plug!) the year before. So we were able to use some of the material from that book to form the basis for this one. As we started spending more time in Vermont, however, it quickly became clear to us that this was its own place with its own unique sensibility that was influenced by the rest of New England, but also stood proudly apart from it. Capturing that unique quality was the challenge and pleasure of writing the book.
Personally, I feel proud that we took time to highlight the kinds of things that visitors to Vermont are truly looking for (even if they may not be aware of it): farm tours and farm stays, restaurants using organic or local ingredients, quirky country stores, and family sugarhouses alongside the more "obvious" attractions like Ben & Jerry's and Killington. Along the way, we fell in love with parts of the state that aren't as familiar to tourists—and weren't as familiar to us either—such as the Mad River Valley and the Northeast Kingdom. We truly hope that readers enjoy exploring them with us!
(Moon Vermont is available at Amazon.com. Find other great guidebooks at Moon.com.)
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Another Burlington attraction: Lake Champlain Chocolates, which offers free samples on their factory tour:
Also, you can bike three mies out to the middle of the lake on the Burlington bike trail: http://www.localmotion.org/islandline/index.htm
Posted By Marilyn Terrell on September 5, 2008, 7:02 AM
Those are great tips for visiting Vermont. Thanks for mentioning YankeeFoliage.com - and when you are traveling through Vermont take note of the color you see and update our map for us (please!)http://www.yankeefoliage.com/foliagemap/. We have some reports that leaves are beginning to change now. Happy Leaf Peeping!
- Heather
Yankee Magazine
Posted By Heather Atwell on September 5, 2008, 9:15 AM
Thank you for spotlighting my home state, Vermont.
But, I also want to point out a sorely overlooked area of Vermont, Franklin and Grand Isle counties. Though the Northeast Kingdom is mentioned often as a rural place to visit, the Northwest corner is also a great place to get away from the crowds of leaf peepers. St. Albans is a historic railroad town and a great launch point for investigating the area.
Take Route 7 north to Alburg and get on Route 2 through the Champlain Islands which will take you into Burlington. Route 2 through the Champlain Islands has always been a popular, scenic biking route with views of the Adirondack Mountains to the west and the Green Mountains to the east with the lake in between.
Also, a trip north from St. Albans on Route 207 will get you to Highgate. Visit Danny and Dawn Boucher and taste the best Blue Cheese anywhere (in Jeff's opinion) at Green Mountain Blue Cheese. Then go East into the hill country of Sheldon and Montgomery on Route 105 and 118. Montgomery boasts the most covered bridges in any one town in Vermont. Double back to Route 105 and back to St. Albans through Enosburg. I could go on and on, but check it out for yourself! Enjoy small town atmosphere with big time views.
When the color is past in the Green Mountains, color can still be found along the lake shore. Follow Route 7 from St. Albans down the west side of the state. I call this New England's West Coast with Antique shops, wineries and farms. Don't miss Vermont's own Aquarium in Burlington, Maritime Museum in Vergennes and look for blueberry wine in Charlotte.
Lisa
Jeff Folger's wife
Posted By Lisa Folger on September 5, 2008, 11:27 AM
It's pretty easy to combine a trip to VT with a trip to Montreal, QC Canada (less than 2 hours from Montreal to Burlington...) Something worth considering if you have the time. Of course the leaf colors don't respect the borders; it's just as pretty in QC as it is in VT, but the colors move southward so it's best to start leaf-peeping in QC and drive south with the leaves.
dave (who went to college in central VT)
Posted By David Emery on September 8, 2008, 12:08 PM
Don't forget the Stowe area and The Beauty Spot of Vermont, Lake Elmore, where there is a state park by the lake, and an easy hike up the mountain and a fantastic view. The Elmore Store is a charming one where "Mayor Warren" can fill you in on cottages available. All this just 15 minutes from Stowe and 30 minutes from Montpelier, our picturesque capital of Vermont.
Posted By beverly Keck on September 8, 2008, 5:36 PM
Firstly , thanks for highlighting my home state , whose absolute survival depends on those Almighty tourist dollars ! You failed to mention the capital city of Montpelier and its most beautiful Capital Building . It is complete with a golden dome to reflect its forested mountain backdrop( so you will see no city skyline behind it as with most other state capitals ! ) . This site is only nine miles from the world's largest granite quarries , ( try Rock Of Ages welcome center or the granite museum in Barre ) . As odd as this may sound , take a drive through Barre's " Hope Cemetery " to see some exquisite and unique granite art work ! I promise that you will be pleasantly surprised by the lifesized Mercedes Benz , a couple laying in their bed , and many other works of art that have all been produced by local Barre craftsmen .
Also neglected was the incredible drive through the only county in Vermont comprised completely of islands ! Grand Island County follows U.S. Route 2 about 1 / 2 hour northwest of Burlington ( our largest city with about 37, 000 souls ) . It is a drive similar to driving through the Florida Keys , but with Lake Champlain being split down its middle by the island chain . Beautiful vistas of New York to the west and Vermont's Green Mts. to the east will provide great photo opportunities . A visit to Hyde Cabin ( Vt's. oldest log cabin ) and a trip to local apple orchards ( to pick your own apples ) are a must in Grand Isle County , along with a ferry ride (with or without your car ) to New York gives you the " on the water " perspective that you can not get elsewhere ! Enjoy your stay with us !
Dick Robertson ( local yokel )
Posted By Dick Robertson on September 10, 2008, 6:10 PM
Thanks for all of the great comments and travel suggestions for other parts of the state! So many great places to visit in Vermont, it was hard to include them all (though we do cover all of these in our book.) Hope Cemetery is one my favorite places in the state, Dick. It's so strange and cool. And Lisa made a good point, that the warm lakeshore and low elevation of Lake Champlain makes it a good place to search for leaf color late in the season when colder areas have passed their peak. Plus you can stop in the Maritime Museum in Vergennes and learn all about the days when Benedict Arnold was a great American HERO! Thanks for reading - Michael Blanding
Posted By Michael Blanding on September 11, 2008, 2:55 PM
Another great site is www.gostowe.com they give you information on the foliage, hotel specials as well as have a "full" calendar of events for the coming seasons - fall & ski, including information on Relay For Life NordicStyle... If you haven't been to the Stowe area there are thousands + reasons to visit my newly adopted home state.... Vermont for "all" seasons.
Posted By susan russo on September 23, 2008, 9:14 AM
I think you are losing out by not visiting the area around Peacham, Danville and St. Johnsbury, VT
Posted By Charles on October 13, 2008, 12:42 PM
The Grafton Cheese factory is a great setting in southern Vermont. Beautiful pastures surrounded with hills with fall colored trees. Free samples of aged cheddar cheese that are amazing. We bought a variety pack of cheese to take home with us. The next time we go to Vermont we will target the Northeast Kingdom, Peacham and Groton State park area, and Mad River Valley.
Posted By bibenthal on October 17, 2008, 11:17 PM