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The self-proclaimed largest museum in the world, the Louvre packs more than 380,000 objects into a sprawling space of 650,000-square-feet, and it simply cannot be seen in a day. That doesn't stop people from trying, of course. You can easily spot the overexerted: They're the ones yelling at their spouses, sprawling glass-eyed on the benches, and crying to themselves behind the statues.
It doesn't have to be this way. My advice for not losing your head at the Louvre: Bite off a reasonable chunk—only one major department per day—and pad your belly with plenty of great food and drink. Here are some favorite places to stop before and after your visit:
Coffee or Hot Chocolate
Le Fumoir On the east side of the Louvre, this café has an old wooden bar that was salvaged from a Chicago speakeasy. Leather sofas and polished bookshelves add to the gentlemen's club vibe, but girls—and dogs—are also welcome. Their "late breakfast" menu of fresh juice, toast, and a hot beverage is available until noon for €7.60 ($9.50). 6 rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1- 42-92-00-24.
Angelina's In the covered arcades on the north side of the Louvre, this gilded belle époque teahouse serves the best hot chocolate in town. Angelina's chocolat chaud l'Africain is thick and rich, served in a porcelain pitcher with unsweetened whipped cream on the side. With a cup of that and a dessert (the Mont Blanc has a devoted following) you may have enough sugar to make it through the Denon wing. 226 rue Rivoli, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-42-96-47-10.
Wine and Nibbles
Café Very The same gardens that once hosted the guillotine are now home to strolling couples, laughing children, and great spots to relax. Public drinking is allowed in France, so many people bring their own wine to enjoy in the outdoor chairs. But those who don't want to lug a bottle through the Botticellis can grab a spot at Café Very. The outdoor café serves drinks and light meals created by chef Gilles Choukroun. Jardin des Tuileries, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-47-03-94-84.
La Garde Robe Delightfully informal, this is one of the few wine bars in Paris where you can stand at the counter, chat up the bartender, and simply enjoy a glass. Table service is also available if you need to rest your feet. Every drop here is organic, untreated vin naturel, and there are delicious snacks that include a sharable board of cheese and charcuterie. 41 rue Arbre Sec, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-49-26-90-60.
An Affordable Meal
Juvéniles A wine bar like la Garde Robe, but the sort where you can (and must) settle in for some real cooking. Juvéniles is owned by an outlandish Scotsman who dares to mix New World wines in with his French selections. The food is hearty and delicious, costing between €20-30 ($25-38). Reservations are a good idea. 47 rue de Richelieu, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-42-97-46-49.
L'Ardoise On a quiet street behind the rue Rivoli, this traditional French bistro is one of my fallback recommendations for visitors. Their €33 ($42) menu allows you to choose three courses from a long list of options. There's grilled steak for those who are taking baby steps with French cuisine, and roast pigeon for the more adventurous. They also serve dinner from 6:30pm: that's seriously early by French standards, but it's often the time by which famished foreigners are ready to eat. 28 rue Mont Thabor, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/01-42-96-28-18.
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1. The whole Louvre can be done in a single day: a) Get there at opening time; b) Plan your route through the museum; c) Don't linger.
2. You can get an entire meal for 10 Euro at the Flunche across from the Pompidou Center. Why would I pay E7.60 just for juice, toast and coffee?
Posted By Rich on December 8, 2008, 12:36 PM
There is probably no point in debating whether or not the Louvre can be done in one day, or whether an entire meal at Flunch is better than real French cuisine.
After all, it all boils down to what's important to you...in Paris as in life. If your goal is to walk every corrider in the Louvre in one day, you will surely engineer a means to do so.
Likewise, if your goal is to maximize calories per euro, then Flunch may be one of the better options.
Otherwise, for a culinary experience at a good value near the Louvre, just venture a little towards Opéra and you will have an incredible pick.
Posted By Carsten on December 9, 2008, 4:51 AM
Don't forget the Louvre also has a cafeteria that isn't bad. Take a break for lunch for Pete's sake your dragging feet will appreciate the pause and it;s fun to people watch.
Posted By sheila from Boston on December 12, 2008, 11:00 AM
Paris is PARIS Love it, enjoy it, don't rush it, take your time, find out why you came to PARIE
Posted By David from NJ on December 12, 2008, 12:21 PM
Thank You Meg for your article that helps take the
intimidation out of experiencing the Louvre and Paris.
I have a travel agency and have had the blessing to introduce Paris to my clients by escorting groups for the past 8 years. Keeping the "snobbery" and competition out, has brought all
kinds of travellers to this incredible "city of lights", and I think of "life".."Do" Paris, any way you like, but be sure to "do" it at least once in your lifetime. And I think every human on the planet should experience the Louvre, makes one aware of the vastness of culture, time, and history.
Posted By Rebecca on December 12, 2008, 2:22 PM
Who would want to do the Louvre in a day? What would see? What would you understand? Better to linger in a few rooms, absorb the art and enrich yourself, surely?
And afterwards, a great experience is a tiny fishmonger a few minutes walk away - L'Ecume Saint-Honore on the rue du Marché Saint-Honoré has a small handful of tables for blindingly fresh seafood and chilled white wine. Enjoy whilst Parisians poke through the fish on display and relish the recordings of seagulls and crashing waves! It may not be stylish but it's a real find...
Posted By Dave Reeder on December 14, 2008, 5:42 AM
The Louvre is open till 10 on Wednesdays and Fridays and the admission is discounted after 5pm. I visited on a Friday evening and it virtually deserted, I only had the security guards for company. I was able to stand in front of the Mona Lisa ALONE, which is unheard of, until I was tired of looking at it. Even after dinner, the crowds were manageable. I strongly recommend an evening visit if you're able.
Additionally it is FREE on the first Sunday but shoulder to shoulder crowded. It is also free on Bastille Day, July 14.
Posted By katzenjaammer on December 15, 2008, 12:17 PM
The cafeteria in the Louvre is excellent. The food is fresh, very well prepared, and reasonably priced. We regularly eat in museum cafeterias in Europe. It leaves more time to enjoy the history and art. I suppose that it depends on your travel priorities.
Posted By Deborah Miller on December 29, 2008, 9:15 PM
My daughter and I ate in the cafeteria and the next day flew to Rome where we spent the next 24 hours sick as a dog. We both ate a sandwich from the Louve cafeteria with turkey, lettuce and mayo. My husband and son had the ham and they were fine. I'd think twice before eating a sandwich with mayo. It tasted delicious at the time but we paid a huge price later. I thought I had food poisoning before but now I know for sure what food poisoning is!
Posted By Mary Ann Patterson on January 26, 2009, 12:37 PM
Rebecca,
I've never been to Europe and when my granddaughter was around three years old I told her that when she turned 13 I would take her to Paris.
This coming May she turns 13 and I would like to keep my promise. Since I have never been to Europe I was a bit nervous and looked into the Adventures by Disney trip to Provence and Paris.
I decided that I could pay for her first year in college at their prices and they don't include air.
I was told that goaheadvacations.com had some good deals. Since you've been there and organized tours on many occasions, do you have any reccomendations.
Anything would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Karen
Posted By Karen on February 2, 2009, 11:48 PM
Karen, I'm taking my 13-year-old and 10-year-old next month to Paris. Check out Fat Tire Bike tours--www.fattirebiketours.com/paris--we plan to do at least one in Paris and also the trip to Versailles. They sound wonderful...and are affordable! (As well as easier on the feet in covering lots of miles.) My friend who's been to Paris several times said it sounded like a marvelous way to see the massive Versailles.
Posted By Lisa Bergren on February 23, 2009, 3:49 PM
Angelina's is a MUST. I took my girlfriend here on her birthday. She still talks about it!
Posted By nervous on April 7, 2009, 3:57 PM
Our tips for Louvre practicality and enjoyment:
1. Visit during the evening hours, one day a week. (research ahead)
2. Enter via Museum Pass to avoid lines
3. Take the DaVinci Code tour; it includes most of the art you want to see, unless you have days to do it.
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Posted By Rocco Hirezi on February 24, 2012, 9:20 PM
Es ist fantastisch! Ich frage mich, ob ich ein paar Dinge schreiben wollte, würde ich, wie man weiß.
Posted By wypadek on March 5, 2012, 10:10 AM
Best article. I look forwards to reading much more. Regards
Posted By Arlie Pharis on March 18, 2012, 8:55 AM