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Once practically unheard of, sandwiches have become increasingly popular in France. About 5 million of them were downed last year, an annual jump of 11 percent, according to an AFP wire service report. Baguette sandwiches are favored two-to-one over hamburgers.
The French are finding it increasingly difficult to justify the time and expense of a sit-down lunch. Restaurant groups say that the sit-down trade has plummeted by about 20 percent, while "le sandwich ne connait pas la crise"—the sandwich knows no crisis.
A more optimistic explanation for this migration is that French sandwiches are getting better. Years ago, the offerings of the average baker included jambon beurre (ham and butter), jambon fromage (ham and cheese), and crudité (meat dressed with lettuce, tomato, hard-boiled egg and a half-gallon of mayo). These choices were sometimes salvaged by the star quality of the baguette, but on the whole they left the repeat eater uninspired. My French friend Caroline had nearly given up on the genre, finding sandwiches altogether "too depressing."
She and her compatriots are beginning to come around now, seduced by a slew of interesting options. What you'll find at the average corner bakery today is much more creative than even five years ago. This is great news for travelers who only want to take a short break between monuments. While the options are much-improved across the board, some of my favorite hand-held lunches have been perfecting their craft for a few years:
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• Coquelicot (24 rue Abbesses, 18th arrondissement) This bakery in Abbesses is famous for their Piccola baguette, and the pear-walnut-Roquefort sandwich makes me swoon. I take my lunch over to the lawn sloping down from the Sacré-Coeur—it's a great place to gaze out at the city.
• Eric Kayser (87 rue d'Assas, 6th arrondissement) Widely regarded as one of the top bakers in the city, Kayser makes feast-worthy sammies on stellar fresh bread. Combined with a dessert from his renowned pastry kitchen, it's a steal for only €7 ($8.75). Walk your treasures over to the Jardin Marco Polo where you'll find a pretty fountain and plenty of benches.
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Meg, how could you have forgotten to mention GOUTU?
http://www.goutu1.com/concept.php
Posted By Adrian on March 7, 2009, 4:32 AM
Thanks for the good cheap eats tips. I'm hoping to visit Paris in November, when the weather won't be great for picnics. Any suggestions on nice places inside to eat a take-away lunch?
Posted By Margaret on March 9, 2009, 7:51 PM
As an American living in Paris for many years, I can attest that Paris-style fast-food is progressing with leaps and bounds, without sacrificing variety.
An excellent example is the Passage Choiseuil, that can be accessed from 40 rue de Petits-Champs in the 2nd arrondissement. This Haussemann-era indoor street is full of personalised quick eateries that are trendy and tasty.
Margaret--this would be a great place for you to go in November!
I have a list of low-budget eateries that are pretty much a part of my day-to-day life in Paris. Just drop me a note and I'd be glad to share.
Carsten Sprotte
carsten@parisharing.fr
Posted By Carsten Sprotte on March 13, 2009, 3:38 AM
....and what about Boulangerie Paul?? A chain in Paris but awesome pastries and interesting sandwiches. Last time I had a curry chicken salad on crunchy french bread. The article is correct in that Paris is progressing with it's carry away sandwiches. Although I do also like the jambon buerre as well :)
Posted By vicgirl on June 20, 2009, 10:49 AM