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• Skip the soda. French people rarely drink the stuff, and almost never touch it during meals. It's usually expensive, around €4 ($5.20) for a small iceless glass that doesn't come with a refill. Do as the locals do and order un carafe d'eau. This pitcher of tap water is free and, contrary to reputation, even more popular than wine at lunchtime. You may have to ask your server twice, always following this with s'il vous plaît.
• Order less food. I felt obliged, when I first started dining in Paris restaurants, to order the full three courses (entrée-plat-dessert) at every meal. Later I realized that the locals were tailoring the formula to fit their midday hunger: a starter + main, a main + dessert, or just simply the plat du jour. The money and calories that you save will serve you well later on at the pâtisserie.
• Tip like a Frenchman. As a former waitress, it took me a long time to shake the habit of overtipping in Paris restaurants. I knew that French waiters made a real salary (unlike their American counterparts, who earn only half the minimum wage), but I still felt cheap in only leaving small change. Nevertheless, locals leave no more than €1–2 per person for a typical lunch. Most often, a €2 coin is perfectly acceptable for two people. So keep some change handy: You'll be saving money and following local custom at the same time.
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Reasonably good article. Since I lived in Paris for 8 years, here are some other general pointers that may make your stay more enjoyable:
It's actually "une carafe d'eau s'il vous plait, monsieur/mademoiselle/madame," since carafe is a feminine noun and you also do want to address your waiter or waitress appropriately on the old continent (in France, if the waitress is young, you can call her mademoiselle. If she's older, it's ok to call her madame - trying to call her mademoiselle may backfire on you since she may think you are after her...well it's fairly complicated and that's for another time...) However, never ever go on a first name basis with ANYONE unless they offer it!
Yes, absolutely stay away from the well-known tourist spots if you want to 1. save money, 2. stay away from attitude on both sides, and 3. if you want to get to know some friendly locals.
Sometimes, those Parisians take it a bit far: my father, who was a "real Parisian", actually refused to go up this "tourist trap called the Eiffel Tower," even when I introduced him to my soon to be American wife, who wanted to experience it...(he finally went after I dragged him up there after promising him that he would never ever have to go again...)
If you are not on a diet and just want a cheap, quick and good bite to eat, get a crepe at one of the many crepe stands - they fill you up and are delicious.
A "dejeuner au menu" is usually the best way to go if you want an all inclusive lunch with salad, main meal, and desert. Try one of those out of the way little restaurants, who advertise it right by the entrance. If you want a good sandwich or even steak pommes frites (steak with french fries), then try one of those many "tabac", who double up as bar, and small deli besides selling all kinds of cigarettes.
Since smoking has finally been outlawed in most restaurants in Paris, you can enjoy your dining experience a bit more now. However, there will still be smokers here and there, who don't agree with the new law and since the French in general do not look to authority in the same way Americans do, try not to get into a fight with someone ignoring the non-smoking sign right next to him. Remember you are the guest in another culture...
Finally, speaking of guest in another culture, if you even try to speak three words of French, however good or bad they may sound, you'll be surprised how many people will immediately switch to English to accommodate you. You'll even be much more likely to make lifelong friends.
Posted By Eric on March 19, 2009, 3:46 PM
Aww, you caught me! I do from time to time make mistakes with my feminine/masculine articles (the "un/une" error that Eric pointed out). But this perhaps is a good opportunity to remind our readers not to be overly fearful of such mistakes. As Eric rightly suggests, a smile and a "s'il vous plaît" goes a very long way!
Posted By Meg on March 21, 2009, 4:25 AM
Meg has given some good tips here.
I am an American living in Paris for many years now, and I too only recently dared to order whatever I felt like. For example, two starters instead of a main dish. My excuse was that the two starters just looked so good I had to try them!
Now, the real challenge of course is finding those eateries that give you a great experience for a bargain. They do exist! I have a list of my favorites and would be happy to share these with you if you drop me a note on
carsten@parisharing.com
Posted By Carsten Sprotte on March 23, 2009, 2:01 PM
Eric - watch your spelling in English too!! "an all out inclusive lunch with salad, main meal, and desert"?? DESERT? You mean desSert (even spelled the same in French, correct)? Just being nitpicky!!
Posted By Michael on March 23, 2009, 2:16 PM
Remember...dessert...strawberry shortcake...two s's.
Posted By MJ VanSickle on March 23, 2009, 5:37 PM
Regarding Eric's comment on 3/19/09 regarding smoking, I had an experience on my last visit to Paris I'd like to share. While having lunch in a cafe near Sacre Couer two men sitting at the next table stepped across the aisle and asked if I would be bothered if they smoked.
Posted By Dick on March 23, 2009, 7:25 PM
Any names and/or locations of these eateries would be greatly appreciated. I'll be with a small group and we like to look for non-touristy attractions and eateries. Any good suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Posted By Gwen on March 23, 2009, 7:36 PM
I'm going to La Rochelle and continue to L'Ile de Re this coming May. Would appreciate input as far as hotel info, good restaurant to eat. etc.
Is the weather would still be cold at that time?
Thanks.
Posted By Tri Utari on March 24, 2009, 4:24 PM
Very interesting exchange and a lot of good advice!
Posted By Paul on March 25, 2009, 12:15 PM
we (2 American adults) will be in downtown Paris from April 10 through April 17...and then to Bailly Romanvillers from April 17 through April 23, 2009.
Please assist with the name, address, phone of places for these two requests for the above locations-
1. Provide the current-truely-budget restaurants
and eateries for lunches and dinners.
2. Best grocery stores to obtain cereals, milk, breads, egg beaters, fruit AND some prepared food
selections.
Greatly Appreciate and Huge THANKS.
Posted By E. Y. on March 28, 2009, 12:09 AM
My family and I lived in Paris for 5 years and I never could get un/une correct especially at the local bakery in the morning, so I usually ordered deux baguettes or deux pain au raisin and enjoyed the extra items without my french being corrected.
Rule 1--your french will be corrected. Get over it. The french correct each other too.
Rule 2--you came to france for good food and wine, so get some and economize when you get home.
Enjoy your visit and return soon.
Posted By B Gaylord on April 18, 2009, 12:32 AM