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Ciao! I'm back from Rome and eager to begin responding to the many comments you posted before I left. Look out for future blog posts and stories that will address common questions like alternative lodgings (apartments, convents), personal safety and security, finding reliable tour guides, and smart strategies for visiting major attractions.
First off, congrats to reader Bruce Logan for completing the Rome marathon! I landed at Fiumicino airport early that sunny morning and joined the crowd at Piazza del Popolo just in time to watch the leaders speed by, as a brass band played and kids waved balloons.
[+] Enlarge photo
[+] Enlarge photo
I did make it to Da Augusto in Trastevere, however, and thank Peggy for the tip. It's a no-frills, perpetually jammed Roman trattoria, where we were greeted—or rather, brusquely acknowledged—by the owner, who motioned us back out to Piazza de Renzi to wait. Da Augusto doesn't take reservations, or even names. After waiting our turn for about 20 minutes, a waiter plunked down a brown-paper tablecloth (where our bill was eventually scrawled) and a laminated menu. It seemed only right to order something as traditionally Roman as the restaurant: rigatoni all'amatriciana, cooked al dente in a chunky, lightly spiced tomato sauce with pancetta for €6. Piazza de Renzi 15, 39-06/580-3798.
That's all I sampled at Da Augusto because it was actually the second dinner of the evening. My husband Dilip and I stopped first for an aperitivo at nearby Freni e Frizioni. Once a car mechanic's workshop, the trendy bar (named "Brakes and Clutches") whips up creative cocktails—buy one, and help yourself, as we did, to multiple servings from the buffet. Via del Politeama 4-6, 39-06/5833-4210.
I noticed that Dorie, Debbie M., and other readers asked about places where Romans eat. Freni e Frizioni is one of them! So is Felice in the mostly working-class neighborhood of Testaccio, where we enjoyed our favorite meal of the trip: a steaming bowl of tonnarelli cacio e pepe. The waiter mixed the thick spaghetti with potent cracked pepper and pecorino shavings for us tableside. No menus, and no English in earshot. Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 39-06/574-6800.
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Looking for a nice hotel close to the Spanish Steps, any suggestions other than The Pensione Panda. That one sounds good. IT WOULD BE FOR 2 AND MUST HAVE PRIVATE BATH.Any suggestions would be appreciated. THANKS. Camille
Posted By camille dicosmo on April 4, 2009, 6:14 PM
Hotel Forte on Via Margutta
We ended up with a room that was two levels and faced the courtyard of the palazzo building next door and was a bit cavelike - but we still enjoyed our stay and it included breakfast.
We stayed at pensione panda last time, it was almost as nice as Hotel Forte, and didn't include breakfast and had no elevator. Pensione Panda is more expensive than Hotel Forte, Hotel Forte is on a quieter street (same as in Roman Holiday). Hotel Forte is about the same distance walk or closer to the Espanya metro station.
Posted By Lisa V on April 6, 2009, 10:17 AM
Stayed last year at Hotel Condotti - Clean, breakfast included and great private bath
Posted By rose on April 6, 2009, 4:32 PM
We stayed at the Panda last July and think it is a great location. There is a farmers market on one of the streets nearby that was wonderful to buy fresh fruit for breakfast at. We liked it so much that we are contemplating staying there again if we go this Sept.
Posted By Patt on April 6, 2009, 4:36 PM
Hotel Modigliani (via de la Purificazione). I stayed there last summer and will be back this year. The rooms are rather small but the location is excelent, between Piazza del Tritone and the Spanish Steps. The staff is very attentive and the owners (husband and wife) are passionate about the city. They actually printed a book with some walking itineraries. I strongly recommend it for a nice yet money savvy Roman holiday. The breakfast is included and can be served in a nice outdoor courtyard.
Posted By Jacques on April 6, 2009, 6:05 PM
Kate,
Grazie per your comment congrats that I finished the Maratona di Roma. I was really slow - I walked 5:00:55.
Cacio e Pepe is a wonderful restaurant on Via G. Avezzana that I went to not far from the Vatican, as is Frankie's deli on Via Cola di Rienza at Via Terenzio. In Trastevere near the Basilica Santa Maria is the San Calisto pizzaria, very cheap. It's across from the church of the same name.
Posted By Bruce E Logan on April 7, 2009, 12:38 AM