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A great Paris walk
Posted by: Meg Zimbeck, Friday, Jun 5, 2009, 9:07 AM

New Yorkers are looking forward to the June opening of the High Line Sky Park—a green space built atop an abandoned west side railway and the subject of a recent video series on the Sundance Channel. The inspiration for this most-cool of projects came from across the ocean, something called the Promenade Plantée.

The flowering gardens of the Promenade Plantée
[+] Enlarge photo
The flowering gardens of the Promenade Plantée (Courtesy Anthony Atkielski/Wikipedia Commons)
The "planted path" of Paris winds in a southeasterly direction through the city's 12th arrondissement, from the Bastille to the edges of the Bois de Vincennes. An old industrial rail line that fell out of service in the late 1960s, it was a dead zone for decades before being reborn as a new kind of public park. The first three miles of this landscaped path are elevated and feel blissfully removed from the rest of the city. At a height of several stories above the sidewalk, the Promenade's cherry trees, wisteria and rose bushes (mostly) block the sound of traffic down below. You won't find a lot of tourists here—just locals enjoying a quiet corner of their city. Its green benches are a magnet for Parisians who come to read, eat lunch, and kiss.

The Viaduc des Arts
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The Viaduc des Arts (Courtesy Meg Zimbeck/Flickr)
The brick arcades below this elevated portion have also been transformed into a series of galleries and workshops called the Viaduct des Arts. Stairs leading down to ground level allow you to peek (and drool) through the windows of these 45 studios. The Viaduc Café sits among these and is a nice place to stop for something to drink (43 avenue Daumesnil). If you're hungry, however, you're better off making a detour four blocks north and eating around the Marché d'Aligre.

The elevated portion dips to ground level around the Jardin de Reuilly, but the path continues on to the border of the Bois de Vincennes. A perfect summer day in my mind might start with a sack of pastries from the nearby Blé Sucre (7 rue Antoine Vollon), nibbled slowly while heading on foot along the Promenade Plantée to a free Paris Jazz Festival concert (insert link from Top Five Free in June) in the Bois de Vincennes. A whole day of sweetness for less than ten bucks… who says Paris is expensive?

[Note: The spelling of Viaduc has been corrected from the original version of this post.]

MORE
More on Affordable Paris, from our ex-pat blogger in Paris

Reader Comments

Paris has had more success in recycling disused venues than it has had with 20th century architecture. The Musee d'Orsay versus La Defense, a sterile eyesore. And I liked the Louvre's old leafy
garden better than I.M. Pei's glorified skylight. Most Parisians I know share this sentiment.

Posted By A.M.Byrnes on June 5, 2009, 7:11 PM

One note for those searching on Google.fr: the correct spelling is Viaduc (no "t") des Arts. Getting to it from the metro can be a little tricky. Meg, perhaps you could share directions?

Posted By M. Riasanovsky on June 8, 2009, 5:58 PM

oh darnit. It's Viaduc without the 't.' We've republished this post with the corrected spelling.

Meanwhile, our ex-pat blogger Meg says:
The easiest way to reach the Promenade is to head from Bastille down the Avenue Daumesnil - this is the street where you'll find the Viaduc des Arts. Start by taking a peek at some of these galleries, then climb one of the staircases that lead from the sidewalk to the elevated walkway above.

Posted By Blog editor on June 9, 2009, 9:11 AM

I'll be taking my first trip to the City of Light this summer, so thanks for the tip. Strolling the streets of Paris is one of the things I'm most looking forward to.

Posted By M. Mahnic on June 10, 2009, 3:52 AM

This is one of my favorite parks in all of Paris. When I lived in Bastille I'd often do my runs along it. I'm very excited to check out the similar High Line in New York the next time I'm up there.

Anne

Posted By Prêt à Voyager on June 10, 2009, 10:51 AM

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