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Save/ShareFrench workers are blessed with six weeks of vacation a year, on average. Many of them take a full month off in late summer. Their good fortune is also yours. The reason? A good number of vacationing Parisians will try to sublet their apartments while off dallying in the Maldives.
For those without a local friend, Craigslist is a great way to connect with departing Parisians. A glance at "sublets and temporary housing" today revealed about forty different listings for July and August. You can snag a one-bedroom in the Marais for €500 per week or a two-room studio along the Bassin de la Villette (my favorite 'hood) for €300 per week.
Advantages: These informal exchanges are much cheaper than traditional short-term rentals, which are already much cheaper than hotels per night. You can generally stay a week for the same price as a couple of nights in a hotel. Apartments offer the possibility of cooking—or at least of morning coffee. They also offer a look "behind the curtain" at local life.
Disadvantages: Unlike the short-term rentals that we've discussed in "Paris at a Price That's Right" and here, these are "real" and lived-in apartments, filled (for better or worse) with the occupant's stuff. That could mean a well-stocked gourmet kitchen and a library filled with interesting books. It could also mean clutter and bursting closets. Cleanliness varies. Some hosts will scrub their apartments, but most will do a quick tidy before heading out the door. They'll usually leave you with a contact number in case of emergency, but you'll otherwise be on your own.
As mentioned in a previous blog post on Paris sublets, it's buyer beware with these informal agreements. I've had friends arrive at their holiday apartment to find somebody else already settled in. I've heard about travelers sending security deposits to people who subsequently disappeared. The best way to avoid trouble is to ask a lot of questions, trust your instincts, and avoid wiring any money.
These warnings aside, informal rentals offer incredible value and a way for unfussy travelers to lengthen their stay in Paris. They also help the fortunate Parisians to order a few extra Piña Coladas during their holidays. Everybody wins.
Let's hear now from you: What have been your experiences in renting apartments from Craigslist or similar websites? Any advice or strategies to share?
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My wife and I rented an apartment in The Marais for a week on our honeymoon--it was far superior to staying in a hotel. We found our sublet on
http://studio.provaction.com/
We stashed cheese and champagne in the refrigerator for nightcaps, I loved being able to just walk out the door and buy pain au chocolats and espresso on Rue des Rosiers without having to venture through a hotel lobby, and the washer and dryer meant we were able to pack a lot fewer clothes.
Posted By Zach Everson on July 17, 2009, 10:39 AM
I rented an apartment near the beach in Conil de la Frontera, Spain through Loquo (basically Spanish Craig's List). I did have to transfer a deposit into the owner's account before arriving, which made me a little nervous, but the apartment was ultra affordable, really clean, recently renovated, and less than a 5 minute walk from the beach. Unfortunately, the owner spoke almost no English, which could be an issue for some people. Even after a year of living in the country, I struggled to understand her ultra rapid, ultra accented Spanish.
Posted By Emily on July 20, 2009, 11:58 AM
There is one big disadvantage to renting like this.
In the peak holiday season the Parisians do indeed flee the capital, leaving empty apartments. Many drive to the sea in their cars on "black Saturday", when the roads are crammed and the fatal traffic accident rate soars. But they also leave behind a dead city. Theatres and other entertainments are closed, while many restaurants shut down and the owners, cooks and waiters take their break. I suppose there are tourist things you can still do, but the city feels lacking and empty - and you really don't get the best out of Paris at that time.
Posted By Ian Chandler on July 20, 2009, 2:04 PM
Yes, Paris can be "dead" In August, but there is still stuff to do. The Louvre and other museums generally have abbreviated hours, but there are open bistros, especially in the "neighborhoods" and one can find local food,cheese,and wine shops, boulangeries, etc. The best thing certainly is to get a small apartment WITH a kitchen, which by the way, will not likely be what Americans are used to. (Small apartments generally have clothes washers, but probably not dryers.) This allows for preparing local food products from local sellers.
The parks are free and I recall many evening pic-nics with that old standard, a baguette, a couple of really good (smelly?) cheeses, and a bottle of red wine, which will be cheaper than here in the states.
As a much younger man I lived in France in the city of Orléans, the city of Joan of Arc, about 60 miles S. of Paris in the 1960's, I never found Paris boring or uneventful. It just takes an adventurous spirit regardless of age. Sidewalk cafe's are for relaxing and people watching in. HOWEVER...the Metro (subway) is NOT geared toward the handicapped who may have some trouble getting up and down the stairs to the trains. But the Metro is cheap and goes within a block or two of any place in the city. Troute maps at each station are detailed and show stops and transfer points.
Do learn at least a bit of French as that will generally earn you quick cooperation...in English...from even the Parisians. For the most part they are not hateful of Americans at all, but they do expect respect and not insulting tirades. They often treat each other Parisians that they do not know with a standoffish, quasi-rude manner...This is a very big city after all. A friendly hello, thank you, have a nice day, etc....simple things to learn are well worth the small bit of effort.
If time allows, rent a car and drive to the Loire Valley where ancient castles and manoirs abound, as well and country bistros, restaurants, and local specialities abound. That's a marvelous way to spend 2-3 days before returning to Paris.
I would suggest too, that prospective travelers to Paris do Google searches for a couple of the companies that time-rent apartments in Paris.
Posted By Warren on July 20, 2009, 4:32 PM
Last month we rented a small flat in the Marais from ParisSweetHome. We had a great experience. We might have paid a little more renting from a company but we dealt directly with the owner when we arrived, the price was much cheaper than a hotel and we liked having a small kitchenette. The added security of sending payment to a company rather than an individual seemed worth it to us.
Posted By C Erickson on July 20, 2009, 5:03 PM
Our daughter lives and works in Paris...so we try and get over often...in May we rented our second flat and absolutely loved it...we liked it so much we don't want to tell anyone about it since we met the owner, after going initially through an agency, and we can now deal with him directly and more cheaply... Renting a studio etc. in Paris is far superior, in our view, than a hotel, but we can't afford luxury as retirees...normally we have been quite happy with two star digs...a flat generally trumps that...just check carefully about the floor your rental is on and whether there is an elevator or not...usually not....
Posted By G Lowe on July 20, 2009, 7:20 PM
We have rented villas in the South of France from a company Just France. We were well pleased every time.
Posted By Virginia Barton on July 24, 2009, 12:12 PM
I just got back from a fantastic week in Paris, where I stayed on a winding, tree-lined street (rue des Pyrénées) that is definitely off the beaten track for tourists. I discovered this apartment thanks to a website called PariSharing that rents authentic Parisian apartments while their owners are away. Well, not only was I enchanted by the apartment, but also by the chance to meet Juliette…a real “parisienne” just before she handed over the keys. The website is a bit like a social network, so you get to know about people before you decide to rent their apartment. in the future it would be nice if I didn't have to pay in cash, but maybe this is planned since the website has just opened.
Posted By Alexey on July 31, 2009, 9:14 AM