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Once-dodgy backstreets are now a hotspot for design. La Maison de la Lanterne Rouge, in a former brothel, is a clothing shop with Shanghai-inspired accents inside. (lalinternaroja.lamaison.es). Nearby, the boudoir-like Nest Boutique sells retro greeting cards and wrapping paper with modern floral prints (nest-boutique.com). The menu at La Tasquita de Enfrente changes daily, but there's always Madrid-style tripe (latasquitadeenfrente.com).
—Paul Clements, from the September 2009 issue of Budget Travel
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