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Better than Ha Long Bay, Vietnam?
Posted by: Sean O'Neill, Wednesday, Aug 26, 2009, 12:29 PM

We've been asking top guidebook writers to recommend alternatives to well known tourist attractions.

Today we talk with Robert Reid, U.S. travel editor and spokesperson for Lonely Planet. He's certainly the right person to ask about travel in Southeast Asia. He has authored over two dozen guidebooks, including Myanmar (Burma), Southeast Asia, Colombia, Trans-Siberian Railway, and his own online guidebook to Vietnam at reidontravel.com.

Ha Long Bay cruises make almost every first-timer's itinerary to Vietnam, with reason. The boat trips through a valley of limestone mountains are gorgeous.

But Ha Long Bay can get crowded. If you've seen it—or are prone to getting seasick—you may want to instead go to Tam Coc, which is a quick two hours south of Hanoi, near the town Ninh Binh.

There are good reasons why Tam Coc is known as the 'Ha Long Bay of the ricefields'—and why filmmakers chose it as the glorious setting for Catherine Denueve's famous scenes in Indochine.* If you rent a motorcycle and go to backroads, you can stop at an ancient capital, or climb towering limestone cliffs to pagodas with giant views. in nearby Cuc Phuong National Park, you can see very rare gibbons not found elsewhere and hike in solitude in the jungle.

In many ways, Tam Coc offers a better experience than Ha Long Bay, especially if you're the type of person who finds the presence of fellow western travelers to be a distraction. To beat the day-trip crowds to Tam Coc, bus to nearby Ninh Binh from Hanoi and overnight there or in a simple guesthouse next to Tam Coc. If you wake at 7 a.m., you'll have the place to yourself on land or on water.

BONUS TIP!

Most visitors to the Mekong enjoy guided boat tours past thrilling local scenes along chocolate-colored rivulets of the big river. Most go to Chau Doc, near the Cambodia border. But no tours make it to Tra Su Bird Sanctuary about 20 miles south (it's not even in the guidebooks). Ask a local motorbike rider to take you there for a low-canoe ride through a mossy waterways as thousands of birds come home at dusk. There's a watchtower to climb where you can see the sun dip into purple and rust past far-off mountains, then take a spooky ride back as birds gossip about the day's adventures. For the time being, you'll have it to yourself.

MORE FROM BUDGET TRAVEL
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THE FINE PRINT
Now don't get us wrong. These guidebook writers (and their publishers, like Lonely Planet) are not dismissing any attraction that's rightfully famous. Everyone agrees you can have fantastic experiences at well known attractions. All we're trying to do here is recognize that, under some circumstances and for certain types of travelers, lesser known attractions may have their own appeal, offering comparable experiences.

*CLARIFICATION: *The sentence about the movie Indochine was corrected a day after publishing to correct a error introduced during editing.

Filed Under: ha long bay, tam coc, vietnam
Reader Comments

Sometime, I do not totally agree with these article. The reason is

1. Services in Halong bay are better than Tam Coc and you can get more activities than Tam Coc such as Kayaking in carst limestone as well as fishing village.

2. Halong Bay is larger than Tam Coc and you can find the quiet places in Halong Bay and can enjoy Halong Bay in night.

3. Ha long Bay is World Heritage of Vietnam

4. No more activities in Tam Coc without cruising to see limestone mountains and pagoda.

Bobby Nguyen
Active Travel Vietnam

Posted By Active Travel Vietnam on August 27, 2009, 12:58 AM

An addition to Bobby's number 4 above:
I think Bobby meant to say: The activities in Tam Coc are extremely limited, nothing other than cruising to see limestone mountains and pagoda.

I totally agree. I am a Vietnamese American, and I had been in Ha Long and Tam Coc a few times.
Ha Long is a major tourist attraction. Tam Coc is still a remote area and underdeveloped, with dirt road and no hotels.
If you love nature and are backpack-camping type of person, Tam Coc is for you. If not, you better arrange it to be a one-day trip. Start early from Ha Noi and get back in the evening.

To Bobby:
I respect your "not totally agree" with the article.
But the article didnot mean to put down Ha Long or bad mouth Ha Long Bay. It just meant to say "I found a new wonderful spot: Tam Coc. It is almost like Ha Long. Come and take a look, if you dare."
It is good for Viet Nam's tourism and your industry, and your job ;-).
Thanks for your input.
By the way, your English is pretty good!

M Nguyen

Posted By M Nguyen on August 27, 2009, 8:03 PM

To: M Nguyen

I appreciate "new spot" Tam Coc has been promoted beside Halong Bay. I have been a tour guide for 5 years in these spots Vietnam. I found that it should update the newest and great spots near Tam Coc that is Trang An and Van Long revserve.

I love backpacking and adventure tours but Tam Coc in my opinion is more crowed spot than Trang An and Van Long reserve nearby.
Additional, Trang An and Van Long Reserve are more beautiful natural and suitable for camping than Tam Coc.

I have many times to inspect these places as well as services here as I base in Hanoi for 30 years.

I respect your contribution for Vietnam tourism but i wish to suggest travelers to Vietnam with the best spots i have known in Vietnam.

Thanks for your working for me and Vietnam.

Bobby Nguyen

Posted By Active Travel Vietnam on August 28, 2009, 4:45 AM

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