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Antarctica now lures 40,000 travelers a year—five times as many as it drew in 1995. But for reasons that aren't fully known, more icebergs appear to have broken off the major ice shelves in recent years. The danger appears to be rising that one of these so-called "growlers" might strike one of the 50 or so ships that visit Antarctica each year.
Today's cruise lines offer enough life preservers and lifeboats to account for every passenger, a lesson learned from the Titanic tragedy.
But the waters of Antarctica are cold and unfriendly. In an emergency, passengers may have to wait hours before boats and helicopters would be able to arrive and rescue every last person. The trouble is that many tourists aren't physically prepared to row a boat in icy seas for hours.
Men's Journal recently reported a number of disturbing incidents. The scariest? In 2007, an iceberg poked a fist-sized hole in the double hull of the cruise ship Explorer. The 154 passengers and crew fled to lifeboats, where they spent several hours in bitter cold temperatures. Luckily, clear weather and relatively calm seas allowed for a rapid response time by a ship 80 miles away. Otherwise, there might have been trouble. For one thing, three of the four lifeboats had engines that couldn't start, according to news reports.
The cruise industry is essentially unregulated in Antarctica. So, if you go, be sure to choose to sail with a well regarded company. Risk-averse? You might relax more if you opt for an icebreaker instead of a traditional cruise ship.
That said, there are many respected tour operator options out there.
The Explorer was manned by G.A.P Adventures, which declined several requests for comment, perhaps because it wants to put the past behind it. But you shouldn't worry about booking a cruise with the tour company. Everyone was successfully rescued from the ship in question during the unusual accident. The company has since re-doubled its efforts to assure safety of all of its passengers, adopting all of the industry's best practices in consultation with outside experts, according to news reports.
Looking online or consulting with a travel agent, you'll find a run to Antarctica costs under $4,000 leaving from Ushuaia, at the tip of Argentina (about a $350 round-trip flight from Buenos Aires, which is itself about $600 from Miami). Because it's convenient to the spindly Antarctic Peninsula, Ushuaia is base to many 100-passenger vessels, primarily Russian-built icebreakers, promising professional lecturers and landfalls by Zodiac dinghy.
Ten-night departures sell for under $4,000 through U.S.-based Adventure Center (800/228-8747, adventurecenter.com). That includes all meals but means sharing a triple cabin; reserving a double adds about $800 to the bill. Some trips don't actually make landfall, so scrutinize the itinerary before you sign on. You might want to find a cruise through the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (iaato.org), whose members adhere to stringent environmental guidelines.
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Hilarious. GAP Adventures just had to cancel the first few departures of their winter 2009/2010 Antarctica season. Their new ship, the Expedition, a refurbished ferry, considered by most in the industry to be unsuitable for polar expeditions, has major engine faults and is unable to sail.
Posted By XsTatiC on October 15, 2009, 3:02 PM
The Expedition, which is not a new ship, is retiring after years of service for Quark Expeditions.
http://www.marketwire.com/press-release/Quark-Expeditions-1060327.html
Posted By Blog Editor on October 15, 2009, 3:07 PM
In my research, Hurtigruten appears to have the best larger cruise ships (100 passengers or more) sailing in polar ice.
You can get much smaller vessels if you look around. If you want to see penguins and (I hear) whales then go to Antarctica.
if you want to see Polar Bears, I have been to Spitsbergen (Svalbard) north of Norway and we had very bad luck.
The best Polar Bear exploration is in Wrangell Island. it is in Russia just above the Bering Strait. It is said to have more Polar bears than anyplace - probably because there are so few people.
Only Russian ships go there regularly - you need a good ice-breaker to get there.
Posted By CruiseMates on October 16, 2009, 1:48 PM
after looking at many companies, i chose lindblad for my antarctic trip. it is most expensive but we went on land at least twice a day, every day. they are safty minded for us and the penguins. wonderful food too. kayaking around an ice floe and seeing a seal up close was breathtaking. and watch splashcam each evening. so save up for another year. fs
Posted By frances smith on October 19, 2009, 10:29 AM
gee, thanks for making me feel ill at ease! I'm doing a cruise around the horn and will do antartica this winter. My grandmother, aunt and great grandmother are all survivors of the titanic. oh well, what's the chance of disaster stricking twice in one family???!!!!
Posted By MICHELE BOULTON on October 19, 2009, 1:22 PM
You worry too much. Would "THEY" use unsafe, unsuitable ships for cut-rate, inexpensive Antactic cruises? Naaaaaaaaaah!
Posted By Rick on October 19, 2009, 2:06 PM
My wife and I are booked on the "Beyond the Antarctic Circle" cruise with GAP leaving in March 2010. That's one of 6 tours we have scheduled with them next year. They are a fabulous company to do business with and I highly recommend. Did they have an accident - sure, but I had a friend die as the result of a GM car crash two weeks ago -- does that mean I should also stay away from GM cars for the rest of my life?
@XsTatic - you need to grow up just a bit. Just because you sit at home in your PJs making snarky comments on public blogs doesn't make you either a travel or maritime expert.
Posted By Jeff Schoenfeldt on October 19, 2009, 2:51 PM
I have been to Antarctica on the M.S. Le Diamant. Amazing experience. Bad storms on the way back and confined to the ship for 4 days but it was worth the experience.
That being said, if I were going to do it again (which I have no plans to do), I would go with Lindblad. Sailed the Galapagos with them and it was an AMAZING trip!
Posted By Michelle on October 19, 2009, 3:29 PM
I'm not familiar at all with the equipment available for ships, but don't modern vessels have something like sonar so they are able to detect underwater obstacles? If they are reguarly going to be traveling in an area with such a shifting underseascape, I would think it would be a necessity.
Posted By Neverwill on October 29, 2009, 3:55 PM