

Gennaro Cesare grew up in a seedy part of Naples and spent years in and out of prison on drug-related charges. But for the past six months, the 36-year-old father of two has been wearing a different uniform—a neon yellow vest—as a participant in Escodentro. It's an experiment to rehabilitate petty criminals by employing them as guides stationed around Naples. (The €500 monthly salaries are funded by the region of Campania and the European Union.)
Tourists wandering near Porta Capuana, an ancient city gate, have turned to Gennaro for directions and recommendations—he's even accompanied people to nearby Pizzeria Trianon, his favorite.
One time there was a car accident in via Comunale, and, Salvatore, 47, called the police. Another time Salvatore intervened when someone's phone was being stolen. "If we see something abnormal, we say something to the police," he told me. "We use our street smarts."
At first the police put up a resistance, admitted Alessandro Maria Vecchione, head of an education agency that oversees Escodentro. But he told me there was an 80 percent decrease in crime between early June and mid-September—and that the remaining crimes tend to happen at night, when the guides are off duty. Tourists have written in thank-you letters and locals have circulated petitions to increase the guides' numbers and hours.
"It's as if someone gave a societal identity to these people," said Vecchione. "They know that this is a second chance." The question now is whether these ex-cons will get a third chance. The pilot program ends today, and it's up to regional and state officials to decide whether to restart it.
Social worker Riccio Gennaro, 45, himself a former prisoner, helps out the participants and said it would be a cruel hoax if the program wasn't extended. "Many of these guys are from the neighborhood, so people know them and are glad that they've got jobs," he told me. "Those who made mistakes have paid for them; Naples has to change, and we'll be the ones to change it."
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Hooray for Naples. A common sense approach to reducing crime and fewer people going back to prison, while protecting tourists at the same time.
Posted By Tom B. on October 24, 2009, 4:29 PM
What a brilliant idea. Certainly this would give these men a sense of importance and at the same time offer a welcome, supporting hand to tourists! Excellent!
Posted By Laura Brooks on October 26, 2009, 9:18 AM
We drove around and around the train station in Naples last month looking for the Hertz return office (we had picked up our car in Venice)so that we would know where to return it the next day in time to catch our train. The area went from chaos to really seedy and construction was so bad that we could only see the Hertz sign, but no way to get to it. We drove back to our house in Amalfi and returned the next day having decided to just call Hertz and have them meet us at the station, but we found an alley that went through and all turned out o.k. We are retired tour operators and have always been told and told others to avoid Naples because of the crime. We felt safe even in the chaos and wonder now if the Escodentro program was the reason. Thanks for the article!
Posted By dona on October 26, 2009, 9:37 AM
This the the COOLEST idea!!! If it's not made a permanent feature of Naples (and it should be in ALL big tourist regions), it will be a huge mistake. I am just finishing a screenplay based in Renaissance Naples....I'm feeling better about going there on my own if these very helpful gentlemen will be there to turn to should the need arise.
Bravo to the Men in Yellow and whoever came up with this great program!
Posted By Barbara Tipton-MacKay on October 26, 2009, 2:48 PM
Bravi, Bravi, Bravi !
Spero che continuate a migliorare questa bella citta. Ci ritornero definitamente in Agosto.
Ciao
Posted By Pat Dee on October 26, 2009, 3:29 PM
The US could take a few lessons from Naples and possibly reduce our prison quota and rehabilitate petty offenders. What a constructive, innovative idea.
Posted By Kris Crawford on October 26, 2009, 3:34 PM
I think this is a fab idea as long as the excons are not leading tourists into a lair...and the mafia doesn't take over the program. Though violent crime is low in Italy, theft means nothing to most in this culture.
Posted By AmericanwholivedinItaly on October 26, 2009, 4:24 PM
Safer with excons than with the pick pockets in Naples. Might even be safer if the Mafia ran this.
Posted By Rich on October 26, 2009, 5:27 PM
There is more dignity in honesty than dishonesty. People do not desire to be criminals. Great idea. kudos and keep up the good work.
Signore K, a former Italian teacher.
Posted By toni on October 26, 2009, 6:01 PM
Great story! I can't wait to go to Naples now! Takes away some of the edge which stopped me going by myself so far ... Thanks for that, Kate!
Posted By Erika Jakubassa on November 9, 2009, 1:43 PM