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Paris: Loo-la-la! Toilets are hard to come by
Posted by: Meg Zimbeck, Thursday, Oct 22, 2009, 9:01 AM

When I first moved to Paris, someone told me that French women (in addition to not getting fat) don't pee.

I had also read a book that counseled never to ask for the bathroom in somebody's home.

Loo-la-la! Toilets are hard to come by
[+] Enlarge photo
Loo-la-la! Toilets are hard to come by (Courtesy Dan Taylor/Flickr)
Neither of these turned out to be entirely accurate.

But it is true that the French more discreet about the callings of nature. Cultural sensitivities aside, travelers are obliged to make use of the local toilets. So when you gotta go in Paris, your options look like this:

Find a free public toilet. There are public restrooms near the following tourist monuments:
Carrousel du Louvre — the world's greatest museum has a shopping mall beneath it, and that mall contains a bathroom. You'll find it near the entrance to the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre Métro station (1st arrondissement).
Jardin des Tuileries — the toilet is inside the gardens near the corner of rue de Rivoli and the place de la Concorde (1st arrondissement).
Pompidou Center — the modern art museum has a public toilet on the entrance level that you can access without buying a ticket (3rd arrondissement).
Notre-Dame Cathedral — the public toilet is located outside and south of the cathedral — follow the signs to the "WC" (4th arrondissement).
Eiffel Tower — the "grey lady" has thoughtfully placed a toilet between her legs. It's on the right side if you're looking from the Champs de Mars (7th arrondissement).
Sacre-Coeur — the freestanding public toilet is located outside and just southwest of the basilica (18th arrondissement).

Find a café. You have two options in a French café — either stop and buy a drink to "earn your right" to use the toilet, or else be sly about it. If you're paying, you can take your time in finding the toilet, asking your server for "les toilettes, s'il vous plait?" If you're not paying, you need to walk discreetly toward the back or basement of the café, looking for a WC sign to guide you. Act like a paying customer (perhaps one who is using the restroom before sitting down), not a charity case. If someone stops you, smile and ask for the toilets, but be prepared to pay for a coffee at the counter afterward as a courtesy.

It is possible, although unlikely, that you'll encounter a Turkish toilet — a ceramic plated hole in the ground. If you're a girl, take my advice and get outta there. It's not possible to use a squat toilet and escape with dry ankles. Just find a different café.

Find a McDonalds… or a Starbucks, or a KFC. Compared to a café, franchises are "anonymous" spaces and the employees (who are trapped behind their counter, anyway) can't tell whether you're a paying customer or not. Restrooms may be located one floor up or one floor down. They will never be Turkish.

Find a sanisette. More than 400 self-cleaning pods are scattered around Paris, providing a space-age space to do your business. A sanisette bears little resemblance to a backwoods outhouse. The interior is fully cleaned after each session, and newer models include skylights and reservoirs that store rainwater for use in the toilet.

Use an app to locate a nearby toilet. If you don't mind the potential charge from your cell phone service provider, fire up the latest smartphone (Blackberry or iPhone), which will give info suited to your exact location, so you never have to punch in zip codes or addresses. SitOrSquat (free) automatically points out nearby public restrooms and includes details such as whether they're open and if they have changing tables. It relies on user-submitted data, which can be a bit hit-or-miss, depending on your neighborhood.

Find a wall…at your own risk. Men in France still unzip in the most unlikely of public places, but new sanctions are beginning to change that. Special walls around town are designed to splash the offending squirter, and the Brigade des Incivilités are issuing fines against anyone caught making urine sauvage. Check out this amusing video from the Wall Street Journal which follows Parisian cops looking for "crimes against hygiene."

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Reader Comments

Thanks for the tips. My wife loved them. It looks like we might have to constrain our beer consumption. McDonalds or KFC or Starbucks, no merci, tres mal.

Posted By Tom B. on October 22, 2009, 3:46 PM

I don't know what you're talking about. I've peed in Paris many times and never had a problem, although the automated upright-torpedo-style johns are a little weird. Compare trying to find a washroom in a major U.S. city to get a little perspective.

Posted By Bill S. on October 23, 2009, 9:17 AM

Just to clarify: half the world's population uses a squat-style toilet. It's a lot easier, actually, and way more hygienic. Folks from cultures that traditionally use that kind of WC are generally aghast at the Western habit of actually sitting on a public toilet seat. Ewwww!

Posted By My Inner French Girl on October 23, 2009, 9:21 AM

Squat-style toilets are fine for jihadists and other animals, but most civilized people find them disgusting and unsanitary.

Posted By ronny on October 23, 2009, 2:33 PM

Whoa there, Ronny. Watch the tone. My dislike for the Turkish toilet has nothing to do with being "civilized." It has to do with them being difficult, especially for women, to manage. If My Inner French Girl can support her claim about them being *easier* than a porcelain toilet, I for one would love to read it. Diagrams encouraged ;)

Posted By Meg on October 24, 2009, 3:43 AM

I do believe you've gone all potty Meg...

Posted By adrian on October 24, 2009, 11:43 AM

I have fond memories of searching desperately for the golden arches for free use of the facilities while in Roma.

Posted By Sarah on October 24, 2009, 1:59 PM

My worse memories of Paris are the lack of toilets and convenience. This was 10 years ago. I am going again in 2010 and had just about decided not to eat or drink much at all! In Paris! Glad to see the help.

Posted By Claudia Lohrey on October 24, 2009, 7:35 PM

That's true, however you can usually locate one in a department store, down steep winding steps in a bar, or at a train station!

Paris is more than worth it, though!

Posted By Linda M. on October 25, 2009, 1:26 AM

My husband and I just got back from a trip to Paris in August. I tried the McDonald's route...but there too you had to purchase something, and on your receipt was an access code to enter at the bathroom door to get in. Best route is to go when you are at a museum or other tourist attraction. The facilities at Musee d'Orsay and Napoleon's Tomb were quite nice.

Posted By Danielle on October 25, 2009, 11:04 AM

Was in Paris a week ago and had no problem finding toilets. We did run across a few of the sanisettes but didn't use them. Have often gone the Starbucks and/or department store route in London, Paris and Italy. Our plan is generally to take advantage of the facilities when we find them, even if we don't have an urgent need right at that moment.

Posted By Tina on October 26, 2009, 9:45 AM

Some McDonald's require you to buy something in order to get the code to unlock the door to the toilets.

Posted By JK on October 26, 2009, 9:50 AM

I live in Paris now, and have lived in some fairly large cities in the US - Washington, DC, Philadelphia and Denver, amongst others. Comments about there not being bathrooms available in Paris are ridiculous. There are more readily available facilities here than in any of those 3 cities mentioned and the facilities are not just near the biggest tourist attractions. Please come with your mind open and the natives will appreciate you much more as well.

Posted By Annie on October 26, 2009, 10:59 AM

I just returned from Paris and had no problems finding facilities. However, the Starbucks we stopped at had a keypad on the door and you got the code with your receipt. Luckily it was time for a rest and beverage.

Also encountered a Turkish Toilet in Italy and had no problems with it.

Posted By Jan on October 26, 2009, 2:05 PM

In Paris (and in most larger cities) you can also find a bathroom in the lobby of a major hotel. Simply walk in confidently, as if you are staying there, and stroll through the lobby until you find it. I have done this at The Scribe in Paris, the Ritz hotel in Boston, and the Plaza in New York City.

Posted By Nancy on October 26, 2009, 2:11 PM

I was just in Paris in August and found Quick, the French equivalent of McD's, to be an excellent bathroom stop. Never had to buy anything, just wandered in and upstairs. The WCs were always upstairs to the far back. Not always the cleanest but definitely usable and better than the pay toilets!

Posted By Teresa on October 26, 2009, 3:44 PM

I was in Paris in May of this year (2009). First of all, the toilets at the Tuileries were not free. It was 40c for women and 20c for men. Most of the public toilets I encountered in Paris were paying ones. There is usually someone at a desk once you enter and you have to pay him/her to be let in.

At most museums, you have to show your ticket to get to the loo.

I am not sure about McD's in Paris, but the ones in Berlin didn't need an access code- you could just go. :-)

Posted By Cass on October 26, 2009, 5:21 PM

All the major department stores in Paris on the Left and Right Banks have WCs. There are shopping malls and commerce centers.

Don't forget to leave 50 Euro cents in the plate for the attendant and don't mind if she is cleaning in the Men's room while you are in there.

Posted By Rich on October 26, 2009, 5:25 PM

I call them floor toilets. I've used them in Turkey but also other countries. Here is a tip for using them without getting the hem of your slacks wet. Before lowering your slacks, fold or roll up the hems about a foot so they won't drag on the wet surface. For other travel tips to help your trips go smoothly, please put dot com after my name and visit. -- Barbara DesChamps

Posted By Barbara DesChamps on October 26, 2009, 5:52 PM

We had no problem finding the sanisettes which are fun. If you are going to China, better get used to the "Turkish" style !

Posted By Marty Huyette on October 26, 2009, 6:15 PM

Forgive me, but the "turkish-style" potty is not that difficult to negotiate. Must also say that it is not at all hard to find a potty in Paris.

Good luck.

Posted By Patricia on October 26, 2009, 7:17 PM

Just got back from Paris. Some "French Lessons" learned: (1) Female counterpersons are rude & obnoxious and (2) "Customer Relations" have no meaning; (3) WCs are guarded like Fort Knox. After a full day at the Louvre, we went to the Rivoli Caffe across the Carrousel to get something to eat & drink. While my husband perused the display, I wanted to wash my hands & use the WC. As I headed in the direction of the WCs, a female (Asian) employee shouted(in French). I turned to see her gesturing at me -- that I wasn't allowed to go back there. Surprised (shocked?), I said "My husband is at the counter." She actually went to look and said "Where?". (He had just turned to the curb having a sneeze attack). Anyway, she made such a rude fuss we weren't going to spend even 1 Euro there. And she continued her harangue even after we started to walk away!! Unbelievable. French Lession #4: with so many other places on Rue de Rivoli, go somewhere other than Rivoli Caffe esp. if you want to wash your hands before eating or use the precious WC.

Posted By Marlene on October 26, 2009, 8:17 PM

Oh where was this article three years ago??? I had such trouble finding une toilette that I actually developed a severe UTI and ended up in the American Hospital of Paris! You can not buy cranberry juice at 11:30 pm in Paris. Thanks for the wonderful tips... I am printing for my next trip!

Posted By leverette on October 26, 2009, 8:22 PM

Whatever city they may be in, pay toilets are a major rip-off. Paris train stations all used to have clean, free, comfortable toilets. Now they're all pay per use, which is why you unfailingly find a couple of exceptionally stinky corners at all of them. Paying to use a toilet is a major offense and something that should not happen in any civilized city. On this score, I think NYC does pretty well, with handy facilities in Bryant Park, Grand Central Station, most department stores, etc.

Posted By Brad Miller on October 26, 2009, 8:45 PM

Years ago McDonalds was a convenient and stressfree place to use the toilet when you traveled in Europe. Unfortunately, tourists as well as the local teens took unfair advantage and did not clean up after themselves. I used the toilet stall in McDonalds in Venice a few years ago, and found feces on the toilet seat, the bowl and the sink drains were clogged with huge amounts of toilet paper for some ignorant reason and used sanitary napkins and tampons had been left on the floor without the users having wrapped and disposed of them properly.

The public only has themselves to blame for McDonalds understandably taking action to limit the facilities to only paying customers who hopefully will have more respect for the property.

It is still possible to use their toilets for free, but now you have to discretely wait by the door of the bathroom until someone with a receipt opens the door and permits you to follow them in. As long as you don't make a big production of it, this usually works out, but it can be embarrassing if the security guard or employees don't want you standing around.

Posted By Donna on October 27, 2009, 1:24 AM

Last year in Paris in the Notre Dame area, couldn't locate a toilet, so went into local cafe. I ordered hot tea and my husband a cofee so I could use the facilities. When we got our check my pot of tea alone cost $9 US. WOW
I found that the pharmacies or drug stores offer toilets at no cost, so I used them.

Posted By Louise on October 27, 2009, 10:32 AM

I live in Paris and work at CDG airport. One thing about the toilets at CDG airports you should know. They are quite clean, as the cleaning ladies are always cleaning them. But they have one custom that I think is shocking that seems normal there is that when the cleaning ladies are cleaning the men's room, they close it completely at tell the men to use the ladies room while they clean the men's room. The men jut go walking into the ladies room shamelessly as if it was normal. Even though I've been living in France for 26 years, it still something I can't get used to.

Posted By Willow on October 27, 2009, 3:49 PM

I live in Paris and work at CDG airport. One thing about the toilets at CDG airports you should know. They are quite clean, as the cleaning ladies are always cleaning them. But they have one custom that I think is shocking that seems normal there is that when the cleaning ladies are cleaning the men's room, they close it completely at tell the men to use the ladies room while they clean the men's room. The men jut go walking into the ladies room shamelessly as if it was normal. Even though I've been living in France for 26 years, it still something I can't get used to.

Posted By Willow on October 27, 2009, 4:15 PM

I visited Paris and didn't have a problem finding restrooms.
I have seen first hand how the European men void wherever they want. In our national parks, they pass up the restrooms by the parking lots and go wherever they want.

Posted By Karen Swisher on October 28, 2009, 5:19 PM

My I say, having been to Paris without incident vis-a-vis finding a loo that here in the States San Francisco is the absolute WORST for finding a WC. My husband and I honeymooned there last spring, and decided to trek from downtown up to the Castro district where we were visiting a friend.
After pleading unsuccessfully for miles and miles we both finally stopped in a gay bar to drop our drawers. Along the route not even the businesses serving food had public restrooms - evidently to discourage homeless from inhabiting them.
Looking at it this way, the small purchase at a McD's is nothing to ensure access and safety.

Posted By BostonBarbara on October 28, 2009, 6:55 PM

I just got back from France. We went to Reims and found a McDonalds to use the bathroom. It was upstairs and there was NO seat!

Posted By LINDA on October 29, 2009, 1:59 PM

Public Toilets in Paris and France in general, or even the ones in restaurants are not always equipped with the "right" amenities. I would say only 1% of bathrooms are clean and have the basic sanitary stuff. Dear fellow tidy Americans, if you are leaving for France make sure to stop by some local drug store to pick up small packages of soap, toilet seat covers and tissues. I learned my lesson very hard way... Bon Voyage...

Posted By CJ in San Francisco on October 29, 2009, 3:55 PM

One way I have solved this problem is to simply offer approximately fifty cents to one of the staff or shop owners to use their facilities. I have never been refused and it sure beats spending time hunting down a free bathroom. Also, the metro stations in Paris have pay per use facilities.

Posted By Sherry on October 29, 2009, 5:17 PM

Been to Paris many times and have managed by a) drinking less water, coffee and diet pop, b) timing outings, and c) walking into bigger hotels and using the bathrooms near the lobby! When you walk in smile confidently at the doorman and don't 'look around' just walk straight in like you know exactly where your going. Also you can go into their gift shop, browse for a minute then walk to their bathroom (doorman won't be watching you after that). I've done this at some of the swankiest hotels in Paris and their bathrooms are spectacular! Lol!

Posted By KJ on November 2, 2009, 9:16 AM

FYI -- a lot of the Starbucks in Paris (especially in the 5eme, where the students are) require a code on the bathroom door. You get the code at the bottom of your sales receipt...

Posted By Rion on November 3, 2009, 2:23 PM

One option in McDonald's is to just ask a sympathetic-looking customer if you can see the access code on their receipt. I was recently the recipient of such a request. The young Frenchwoman asked me, and of course I did not understand a word she was saying, so she just picked up the receipt I had tossed on the table, read the code, and marched off to the WC. Fine with me. Well, she was pretty. Also, I'm a big fan of the sanisettes. Don't be afraid to try one. Finally, a question. Do attendants still offer to sell you toilet paper? I encountered that on my first visit to France, about 20 years ago, and it so unsettled me, I've avoided attendants ever since. I really didn't want to discuss with the little old lady what I intended to do.

Posted By Dan on November 3, 2009, 7:57 PM

A Special mention for the last remaining vespasienne in Paris next to the Prison de la Santé on the Boulevard Arago. Probably a long way to go though if you are desperate, and not necessarily a comfortable experience either!

Posted By Adam on November 4, 2009, 10:52 AM

Been to PARIS several times with no hassle about finding bathrooms or being allowed to use them, we take enough cash with us so that if we have to buy coffee for use of the facilities..its no big deal..we did however have an urgent need out in the country side one time..stopped in a little village, saw public restroom and ran to it..when we got there it was a drain in the floor..my daughter and i looked at each other..and ran back out!..made my husband rush us to a restaurant down the road and paid happily to sit down to pee..c'est la vie!

Posted By ellen on November 4, 2009, 5:51 PM

To BostonBarbara: You are correct. San Francisco can be a problem. I worked there many years ago. We visit occasionally, including this year. Your best bets during the week are the many public buildings run by the city, state or federal governments that are open to the public. Some of them also have cheap cafeterias for lunch. Kill two birds with one stone. The department stores are also possibilities but seem to hide the WC on the 6th floor. Plan ahead! My mother and sister were walking around once and my sister had to use a bar bathroom, just as you did. My mother was not pleased. We think she eats sponges.

Posted By Barbara DesChamps on November 5, 2009, 1:25 AM

I live in and love Paris but I agree - finding a loo is hard work and one that is clean even harder. (a puddle under the feet is not unusual) and yes, most dont have seats. When ever we have friends visiting with children its even harder as they are not usually able to give you much warning! I am still getting used to sharing with the men even when the toilet is marked 'Women" there are somethings a girl likes to do without men (or walking past an in use urinal often with a jaunty bonjour!) Just back from London for the weekend and what a treat to easily find clean 'women's only' loos!

Posted By Paris expat on November 5, 2009, 4:48 AM

I was in Paris this August and used hotel lobby bathrooms when nature called.

Posted By Jacquie on November 5, 2009, 3:18 PM

I am in loovvvee with Paris and never had an issue with the toilet situation. I am a woman and wear dresses 90% of the time, which makes using a public toilet much much easier....even the "turkish" type. I also learned in Paris that as an American woman wearing a dress and cute shoes they were ten times nicer to me because I didn't look like a rediculous tourist!

Posted By Kenna on November 6, 2009, 2:21 PM

Unless you have a medical issue or a super small bladder, finding a place to pee in Paris should be a non issue as long as you are preemptive. Just make a conscious effort to relieve yourself at every easily available opportunity. Are you leaving the hotel for the day? Use the WC first. Did you just eat lunch at a cafe and don't quite have to "go" yet? Use the WC anyway. You're out and about and came across a free WC in a department store? Use it.

Every time I read one of these articles there is a myriad of comments telling of horrible experiences in Paris that scare the you-know-what out of me. Then I remember that I've actually traveled to Paris many times, and in the last few years - not over 10 to 20 years ago - and have never had a similar experience. Don't let such posts scare you into not going to such a fabulous city OR going with such anxiety that you misinterpret every little thing that happens. If you go with an open mind, open heart and the most basic of manners, I promise you will do just fine!

Posted By Jessica on November 9, 2009, 2:55 PM

Hi! Great write up on trying to find restrooms in Paris. I always had such a hard time when I went the first couple of times. Now they seems to becoming a little more restroom friendly. The only thing that has changed in this article is the Carrousel du Louvre restroom. It used to be free, now the last time I went (in May 2009), they are charging a couple of Euros to use the restroom. I wish they would change that back. When you find yourself paying almost $3.00 to use the restroom, it is crazy. If you arent afraid of the cemeteries, you will find a turkish restroom in there for free. Not bad once you get the hang of it.

Posted By Stephanie Via on November 9, 2009, 5:46 PM

I had the pleasure (?!?!?) of using a Turkish toilet in Paris--I didn't think I would be able to keep my trousers off the floor while I was "hovering", so I took them off... The biggest problem I had was that I am 73 and my knees are not what they once were and after "hovering" for a bit I was afraid that they might just give out and I would end up sitting on that nasty floor... They may be okay for young knees but are a definite problem for old ones like mine!!!

Posted By Richard Shoultz on November 12, 2009, 5:01 PM

Sorry but the bathrooms downstairs in the shopping mall of the Louvre became paying facilities many months ago. They are gorgeous as well as very clean and one can buy colored toilet paper and various bathroom specialties. They cost 1 euro for the privilege of sitting on one of their thrones. The same is to be found at Le Printemps department store on Boulevard Haussman. These may be an inkling to the future of Parisian toilet facilities.

Posted By lucille whan humair on November 28, 2009, 9:56 AM

@ Ronny -- Easy, Tiger. Squats are easy to use, easy to clean. I'm a Westerner, but lived all over Asia for years and actually grew to prefer these to the typically NASTY western-style sit-down jobbies that even get peed on in the States. I don't know why American women insist on hovering, but it defeats the purpose of sitting down to pee if the seat has been fouled up by the previous visitor. American hoverers should really appreciate the squat! (And on a side note, folks, most public - even gas station toilets - get sanitized every 4 hours by law, so are actually cleaner than your average at-home version. When was the last time YOU scrubbed your toilet 6 times in one day?)

I digress. Bottom line is that everyone pees. French women pee. I promise. It's not like you pass tons of free, public toilets walking down the street in America. You'd never walk into a nice restaurant here and waltz through to the back to relieve yourself would you? In my city, even the Starbucks loo requires a key...and you'll get the same look if you aren't a paying customer there as you would trying to sneak into the loo in Paris or Milan or Vancouver.

Posted By Che on December 1, 2009, 6:53 PM

Public libraries! (Bibliotheques municipales) Why does no one every mention this?!? It's a useful solution in almost any city--and especially simple in Paris.

There's at least one in every arrondissement, often several, they're free and open to the public, and many Paris Plans give all their addresses. It's true that some have limited hours, but that's easily checked.

The Mairies (again, one in every arrondissement) also have restrooms. These are sometimes a bit hidden (may not the ideal solution if you speak no French and aren't willing to wander a bit, past the various municipal bureaucratic services) but can be quite practical.

Posted By Jennifer on December 4, 2009, 8:46 AM

Travelled one year in convey from Paris to Granada with several rally & support cars heading for the Paris Dakar Rally. We left Paris in the middle of the night very early on a weekend Christmas Eve and travelled bumper to bumper with everyone heading to granny's place. North of Bordeaux we took a 'pit stop' at a highway rest area. Of course the lines to the women's loos were very long. I was the only woman in the group, the guys eager to get on the road again, grabbed me from the queue and marched me into the men's loos. They got their wish, mortified, I was as quick as can be! To date that has been an 'only in France' experience, although I have used unisex loos in many countries, often passing urinals in use on the way to the cubicle.

I agree with Jennifer above, with a bit of lateral thinking, public access loos can be found most anywhere.

Posted By Robyn on November 25, 2010, 9:36 PM

Paris is nothing on the provinces. I went to France on a high school trip in the 70s. We stopped at a market town to use the facilities. There were unisex stalls at the end of a long corridor lined with urinals. Picture American teenage girls having hysterics about walking by the backs of all the peeing men...

Posted By chris on November 30, 2010, 1:27 PM

Realy good work cheers mate!

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