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It's hard to have a bad meal at any of the churrascarias in Rio; nevertheless, I enjoyed having my thoroughly authentic, though not flashy, meal at the churrascaria "Cruzerio do Sul". It's a classic place- not on the tourist circuit ala Porcao- to enjoy meat, meat, and more meat. Remember not to overdo it at the buffet of tempting salads and sides so as to leaved room! Cruzeiro do Sul is located in Urca in an airy space with attentive service, making it a great stop after a trip to Pao de Acucar!
Posted By M. Hoover on October 19, 2009, 2:05 PM
For delicious coffee and sweets in a beautiful 19th century seting, be sure to visit Confeitaria Colombo (Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32).
And you can't go wrong with any of the numerous juice bars. The number of fruit options will blow your mind. Try a different flavor every day.
Posted By Tesia on October 19, 2009, 2:22 PM
Other than hotels it may be somewhat difficult to find a restaurant that serves a traditional American breakfast in Copacabana. The residents there favor the large assortment of rolls and other delicacies available at large and small establishments. This type of breakfast is appropriate for Rio de Janeirans as many of them have little time to spare at that time of day. I found two restaurants in the middle of Copacabana that serve traditional American fare (waffles, omlets etc.)for breakfast. The name of the bi-level restaurant that I recall is Cafeina. You select your own table there. The address is 44 Rua Constante Ramos. The price is on the higher side (20,00R+) for a full breakfast. It may be worth it to you though if this is what you're looking for.
Posted By Duane Koda on October 20, 2009, 2:53 AM
I found that if you are going to stay for more than a day or two, your best bet is to ask around for an apartment. I was with a group of 5 people paying 40 reais ($20) each to share a small room with bunk-beds at a hostel. I asked the attendant if she knew of an apartment... we got a two bedroom, fully furnished apartment with a kitchen, 4 beds and a fold out couch, and a doorman to let us in 24 hours a day only three blocks off the beach for 100 reais ($50) a night. It was a normal service that the hostel offered, but no one ever asked the right questions, so all the other tourists were stuck sharing rooms and showers while me and my friends had our own place with no rules twice as close to the beach for half the money.
Posted By Scott on October 21, 2009, 2:13 AM
We stayed at a great hotel between Copacabana and Ipanema called The Copacabana Atlantic. Great location, great breakfast, very clean, and just under $100 a night for 4 of us. It was May, so that is not high season.
Posted By royce romberg on October 22, 2009, 10:52 AM
Sushi Leblon has to be some of the best sushi I have EVER had (and I am a sushi lover)! From what I hear it's a pretty well-known place in the Leblon section of town so if you ask around it should be easy to find.
Posted By Sarah on October 22, 2009, 11:42 AM
The Rio Guest House provided us glamorous views inside and outside. Marta has converted her 2-story Copacabana beachfront penthouse into a B&B. You descend the curving staircase to a sunny veranda overlooking the sparkling beach and famous mosaic sidewalks. Our room comfortably and economically accomodated 3 travelers, the breakfasts rivaled famous hotel buffets and we had the personable assistance of a local for inside advice on restaurants and sightseeing.
Marta Miller, Marta's Guest House/ Rio Guest House
Rua Francisco Sa , #5 – Copacabana Rio de Janeiro Brazil
Tel: +55 21 2521 8568 Cel: +55 21 8799 0007
Email: marta.miller@gbl.com.br marta.rioguesthouse@gmail.com
Posted By Barbara Mitchell on October 22, 2009, 1:25 PM
I think it would be of equal or greater service to your readers to seek advice on where NOT to eat, sleep or go in Rio.
It pays to be realistic about Rio. Your readers will thank you.
Posted By sarah on October 22, 2009, 2:39 PM
We stayed in the neighbourhood of Flamengo - a more residential but safe part of Rio that's closer to Lapa. We wanted to be nearer (a $10 reais each way cab fare) to the great samba clubs of Rio. The Hotel Paysandu is great & centrally located w/ free wi-fi & a free breakfast - about US$60 a night.
Posted By Lisa Parrott on October 22, 2009, 2:41 PM
I have stayed at The Rio Guest House, twice now. I enjoyed both stays, Marta and her husband John are wonderful people and they have a beautiful place, with excellent views of Copacabana. I enjoyed my first stay so much that when I went back I took my daughters with me and we had a great time. Just across the side street (Rua Francisco Sa) is an outdoor cafe called Garota's (they have several throughout Rio) they have good food and beverages with a good staff. It's a great place to kick back and have a drink and watch the happenings on Copacabana. I have been to Rio 4 times and Marta's is by far the best place to stay, they will make you feel at home and give you good advice on your plans.
Posted By C.Marshall Reynolds on October 22, 2009, 3:07 PM
We rented a 3 bedroom/ 3 bath penthouse on Ipanema with its own pool, through riorentals.com. It came out to be cheaper than a hotel, plus a kitchen etc.
Posted By maryann on October 22, 2009, 3:13 PM
One of my favorite restaurants is the Casa de Feijoada (Rua Prudente de Moraes 10, Ipanema). It is a traditional Brazilian dish and this restaurant serves it daily, while others only serve it as a special. However, the restaurant is small so plan accordingly.
Posted By Shelley on October 22, 2009, 4:03 PM
Although you can eat better in São Paulo, Rio offers an incomparable experience for having meals at Confeitaria Colombo (rua Gonçaves Dias) in the center of town. It is a 19th century restaurant, luxurious with quite reasonable prices, if you consider the luxury of the premises. Whoevergoes to Leblon, where tourists are expected, one should try AÇAI, considered to be one of the best power foods that you can find. in every corner of rua Visconde Pirajá, in lower Leblon.
Don't miss either to have tea at the same Confeitaria Colombo at the Forte de Copacabana with a astonishing view of Copacabana Beach.
Who ever accepted my advice should send me an e-mail to confirming his or hers impression
Guilherme Somlo - gsomlo@homail.com
Unfortunately living is São Paulo.
Posted By Guilherme Somlo on October 22, 2009, 5:17 PM
If you can imagine what a Roman Emperor's banquet might be like, then you can envision Marius Carnes. When you come inside and approach the buffet, your jaw will involuntarily drop. The quantity, quality, and variety of food served in this place is unmatched by any other Churrascaria in Rio.
It's probably the most expensive Churrascaria restaurant in Rio and has a prime location on the Avenida Atlantica across from Copacabana beach. Well- heeled tourists flock to this restaurant, and if you can afford it, come hungry and you'll be glad you did.
Posted By Brian Wright on October 22, 2009, 6:27 PM
Rio is a beautiful place to visit and has does have a handful of good restaurants, but their number in relation to population of 12 million is very very low indeed. That's because natives of Rio - Cariocas - are much more interested in, drinking-cum-flirting and nibbling on whatever than they are in great food. To eat well go to Sao Paulo or even Paraty.
Posted By Richard on October 22, 2009, 7:28 PM
Location, location, location- Windsor Excelsior ($250 night) was on the beachfront boulevard in Copacabana. Next door was the prestigious hotel, Copacabana. Windsor was clean, simple furnishings, excellent location, lavish breakfast buffet, rooftop deck views of the mountains, beach and city. Our room was not as nice as the advertised pictures on the internet. Staff was helpful and friendly. Lots of good outdoor dining places under tents nearby. On site restaurant and bar. Free towels at the beach concession stand. Pool and workout room, but we didn't use them.
Posted By Connie & Dennis Parker on October 22, 2009, 9:36 PM
A typical Rio experience are the "botequims". These places serve cold beer and typical Brazilian bar food. The food is similar to what Brazilians would eat at home or at a party and very good. There are a couple of different chains with locations all over town. Bar Belmonte and Botequim Informal are my favorites.
Posted By Catherine on October 22, 2009, 10:39 PM
I was thrilled to see your blog about Rio. My husband and I met in Rio many years ago and we travel back very often to visit friends, bring our kids and introduce our friends to one of our favorite cities. We have loads of comments about restaurants, hotels, things to do, shopping, etc. Would you like to interview us, or discuss further? Are you planning an article about Rio for a future issue?
Posted By bernice on October 25, 2009, 9:39 AM
My boyfriend and I have been to Rio twice now. My favorite thing to drink in Rio is the coconut water you can get at any of the stands along Ipanema or Copacabana beach. My favorite places to eat were Confeitaria Colombo and the restaurant in the Copacabana Palace Hotel called Cipriani. If you get really homesick visit Shenanigans in Ipanema. It was full of people from the U.S. and served food until very late. I would recommend staying in Ipanema because it has a more laid back and quite vibe than Copacabana. We stayed at the Ipanema Plaza hotel and it was wonderful. The rooms were very nice and clean. The staff was friendly and helpful. They helped us arrange tours and the free breakfast buffet was delicious. We ate at the hotel restaurant which was good but too pricey.
Posted By Stephanie W. on October 25, 2009, 8:50 PM
My favorite place in Rio for anything other than a large dinner is Taberna do Leme. A great atmosphere, excellent people watching, (1 block from beach), friendly staff, and good affordable food. Located on the corner of Ave. ns. de Copacabana and Ave Princesa Isabel. If you ask they will even take you behind the bar and teach you how to make caipirinhas. Popular with locals for birthday parties and other special events it's a great place to experience life carioca style.
Posted By mark on October 27, 2009, 3:01 PM
We are planning to go to Rio in March using frequent flyer miles. We will spend a few days there before going on to Belo Horizonte to visit our daughter and family. Is it safe to wait until we get there to schedule sightseeing trips or should we try to do so from the U.S. My husband has been to Rio but I haven't so want at least a taste of the area. We are in our 70's so are not so interested in the beaches or samba clubs but have a lot of energy to expend elsewhere.
Posted By Nancy Perry on October 29, 2009, 9:35 AM
Nancy, My experience is that it is much better to schedule your outings once you land in Rio. The prices here are far higher than a South American would pay. I would recommend Angra dos Reis, Paraty, and Petropolis as especially worthwhile outside of the normal Rio attractions. (Sugarloaf,Corcavado,Maracana, and favela tours)Many local tour providers are available all along Ave. Copacabana and Ave. Princesa Isabel.
Posted By mark on October 29, 2009, 2:23 PM
Nancy - you do not want to book any side trips directly in Rio (Sugar Loaf, Corcovado, Favela Tours, etc. through your hotel concierge. They add on a commission that you don't need to pay.
To visit Corcovado take the train to the top; do not accept the many operators at the bottom offering a van trip or you will miss part of the fun. The metro service in Rio is very easy to use and they offer "express tickets" that are a combination of a metro and a bus to specific locations. In particular it is very easy to get to Corcovado (mountain where Christ's statue is) and Sugarloaf this way. You must specify that you want the combination ticket at the ticket window.
For Corcovado you ask for "Metro Cosme Vello" and take the Metro to to Largo do Machado and then the bus (right across the street from the metro station) marked Cosme Vello. Ask the driver to announce when he gets to Corcovado.
For Sugarloaf take ask for "Metro-Urca" taking the metro to Botafogo and the bus for Urca.
If there is a soccer game at Marcana Stadium go, but don't book the "tours" that go as they almost double the price. You can take the metro or even a cab to the game and still come out much cheaper.
Go for the "experience" as much as the contest. The hour or so leading up to the game and the passion of the fans is something to soak in!
Frommers has a great guide to Brazil and lots of side trips day and overnight outings based in Rio.
In Rio make a point to visit Confeitaria Colombo, Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32, Centro. It is a gorgeous tea room that is a must see in the center of town (Centro)
Be very careful at intersections. While cars often (not always) stop at red lights many on bicycles do not. There is also a different driving practice where a car will (legally) turn onto a street and then be stopped by a red light one or two car lenghts into that street instead of being stopped at the light and then turning when the light is green. That can catch you by surprise the first few times you see that.
The architecture in many of historical buildings and churches in Centro is beautiful. If you don't have rechargeable batteries for your camera bring plenty with you. For some reason batteries are expensive there and I have been told they do not last as long as you might expect.
Have a great trip!
Call Marcelo Armstrong's Favela Tour for an excellent visit to two of Rio's favelas if you are ok with some short but steep steps you will traverse while there. The guides will pick you up at your hotel and you will see a side of Rio that many visitors miss. It is a fascinating view into a subculture within Rio.
Be sure to congratulate people you meet on being selected to host an Olympics. They love their sports there and they love to party. It will be a festive Olympics for sure.
Rio's natural beauty is incredible, Have a wonderful time and the places Mark mentions in his post are all great side trips.
Posted By Joe C on October 30, 2009, 12:34 PM
For excellent value for money and pousadas with style and personality you should definitely head to the Santa Teresa area of Rio de Janeiro. Try Pousada Um Meia Tres, Pousada Pitanga or Casa Beleza- all reviewed on www.hiddenpousadasbrazil.com
Posted By Alison McGowan on November 6, 2009, 2:56 PM
As an American who used to live in Rio, I would highly recommend to any first-time visitor a restaurant called Guimas. Set in the Gávea neighborhood (there is also a location in Ipanema), the restaurant is small, yet smartly decorated. There are tables both inside and outside. The staff is incredibly attentive and courteous. The food is top-rate, an eclectic mixture of both flavorful Brazilian and foreign dishes, all cooked to perfection with superb presentation (yes, they do have menus in English). Even better are the drinks! You will find some of the best caipirinhas in Rio, with flavors such as grape, kiwi and strawberry. The ambiance is lively yet not overbearing. You can still have a conversation without screaming across the table. One of the best aspects about this restaurant is the location itself. Situated in the Gávea area, there are a number of great little bars and restaurants to choose from. At night, many of the streets are closed off (mainly on weekends) to traffic and become flooded with a youngish Carioca crowd looking to have fun (carioca = people from Rio). They drink cold bottles of beers being sold by numerous street vendors with coolers and socialize in the warm evening air under the brightly lit up silhouette of the Christ Statue. Uma vida boa!
Also, don't forget to check out the fast causal chain of sushi restaurants called Koni Store (www.konistore.com.br). There are locations scattered across Zona Sul, which includes Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. They sell various types of sushi hand rolls (shaped like a cone) as well as desert cones made with ingredients like nutella. The ambiance is very hip, cool loungy music is always playing. The tables and stools are set outside on the sidewalk, great for watching people as they come back from the beach or from the bars and clubs (they are open until 5AM!) You can't miss Koni, just look for the orange glowing storefront!
Posted By Jeff Sobel on November 9, 2009, 4:42 PM