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Paris: Does the "affordable" restaurant still exist?
Posted by: Meg Zimbeck, Tuesday, Nov 3, 2009, 1:25 PM

Paris restaurant
(Courtesy Meg Zimbeck)

Once upon a time, at least according to Paris legend, it was possible to dine exceedingly well for not a lot of money. Are those days over?

Since I began writing this blog series a year ago, I've become obsessed with finding "affordable" restaurants to share with BT readers. I've asked everyone from famous food critics to my local hairdresser, and the answer is always the same: "What do you mean by affordable?"

In a town where fine dining can cost hundreds of euros, many people agree that €35 is fair for a three-course menu—assuming that the meal is good. There are plenty of restaurants (let's say about forty) that are putting out special and memorable food for that price.

€35, however, is too steep for many people, especially those who are financing the fun with their declining-value dollars. As I wrote back in June, the weakened buying power of the U.S. dollar is presenting a serious challenge for budget-minded travelers. The €35 tab, which thankfully includes tax and tip, is now $51 for Americans. That's not something that most people can do every night.

In my food-obsessed opinion, every traveler should experience at least one special meal during their time in Paris. For that splurge, the Internet is full of good restaurant recommendations. Check out this selection of Top 10 Paris Food Blogs, as well as my new favorite, Paris Kitchen.
 
For all of the other meals, however, there's not a lot in the way of current and useful information. That's where Budget Travel is going to step in and help. In the coming weeks, we'll be adding a heap of affordable restaurant reviews to our site. In additional to my own suggestions, we'd love to investigate and publish your best ideas for affordable dining. And by affordable, we mean eating (not drinking) for under €20.
 
Can it be done? Tell us how in the comments.

Reader Comments

I have found the Latin Quater to be a nice place to get a decently price French meal. You can easily find three course meals for 12-18 euro. It's in a very "touristy" area but if you can get past that, it's a great place to find a nice cheap restaurant. I have visited a number of the restaurants and haven't had a bad experience yet !

Posted By K on November 4, 2009, 8:38 AM

Le Colimacon near Hotel de Ville. It's cozy, romantic, and has good food! A 3-course prix fixe costs around 23 Euros.

Posted By DanniM on November 4, 2009, 11:44 AM

Try the Aubrege de la Reine Blanche on the Ile de St. Louis. I know it's in a tony section of the city, but the prix-fixe meal was excellent. I got three courses: a roasted duck breast with haricots verts, a green salad with fresh goat cheese and a delicious tarte Tatin with a buttery syrup sauce. Final price was about 26 Euro. I know that is a bit over the limit for this article, but I did have a glass of the house wine and a coffee with dessert.
Another plus is prompt and very friendly service (waiters do speak good English, for the French-phobic). And the Parisians I met there were all lovely; very happy to introduce themselves, chat while waiting for dinner and give me tips for my stay in Paris.

Posted By LaurenF on November 4, 2009, 6:56 PM

These are great - keep 'em coming!

Posted By Meg on November 5, 2009, 2:32 AM

Oooh, I remembered another great place. It's an adorable little tea shop called A Priori The near the Opera House (I think it's on Rue de la Banque). It's in a small covered shopping plaza, so even on a rainy day, you can sit "outside" at a table. It serves tea and coffee, naturally, but also has a nice lunch menu with salads, quiche, crudite and cheese plates. And a great dessert menu...try the raspberry almond tarte. Excellent prices and service. I got caught in a Paris April shower and spent a nice afternoon at A Priori The with a pot of tea, a light lunch and a book...for about 12 Euros.

Posted By LaurenF on November 5, 2009, 10:58 PM

not a restaurant, but there's a new site called www.myprivatedinner.com where members organize their own events, so you could find a local dinner, lunch, brunch, etc at someone's house or a restaurant that fits your budget

Posted By emma on November 6, 2009, 5:45 AM

L'As du Falafel, on the Rue des Rosiers in the Marais. Closed from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. Possibly the best falafel in the world, excellent pommes frites, Bekaa Valley Israeli wines and Israeli beers (along with local faves) -- all doable for about 16-18 Euros per person or less. Across from Sacsha Finkelstaijn's bright yellow deli, which has its own historical significance as the scene of the last major anti-Semitic terrorist event in Paris.

Posted By Michael Duca on November 9, 2009, 8:51 PM

Right off of St Germaine Blvd near the Mabbion/Odeon metro stations there are at least 10 restaurants who, for 17 euros will allow you to choose a glass of wine/main entree/appetizer and dessert. I had lamb chops/scallops and beef burgendy as my main entrees-Great food very small restaurants and great service!

Posted By Lisa Griffis on November 10, 2009, 4:12 PM

I ate very nice lunches in the area around the Place d'Italie this summer. I had the prix fixe lunches for around 9 Euro. Quite nice. Paris can be affordable if you get off the beaten path, but it is very hard considering the dollar.

That said, I am going to use this chance to offer my criticism of this website. I am assuming the creatures use the term "Budget" loosely. Rarely is a hotel listed that is under 100 dollars. I feel this is done to program people to think they are getting a deal, when in fact the prices here are often only a deal if you are wealthy. The truth is, with a little research, many better deals can be found that anything I have ever seen on this website. Renting an apartment, dining in quirky offbeat areas, etc.

On the trip to Paris I mentioned above, I was traveling on a very limited budget. I planned my time in Paris around well researched restaurants often in areas far off the tourist trail. By doing so, I saw a Paris that I had never seen before. I met Parisians that were warm and friendly and eager to chat. It was great.

Posted By Whitfield on November 12, 2009, 7:48 AM

Lunch for two at Cafeteria Pyramide $25.48, Delice Fountainbleau $23.35 for two, McDonalds $16.08 for two, Restaurant PT. Bofinger Vicennes (a really good lunch) $60.64 - again for two persons.

I also feel the Ile St Louis grill restaurant meals are a great bargain for an obscene amount of food. We rented an apartment on Ile St Louis (facing the Seine and Notre Dame)and prepared most fo our dinners at home. That is a cost saving!

We also had meals costing over $400.00.
As always, Paris (like New York) has meals at all prices. It is up to you.

Posted By lawthomas on November 12, 2009, 4:11 PM

During the past 13 summers, I've "lived like a native" in Paris, always on a tight budget, so I often cook in my sublet studio or apt. But when I go out to dine, I like these:

On L'Ile St. Louis, L'Auberge des Deux Ponts, 7 rue des deux ponts, 4th arr.. Tiny cafe with a prix fixe menu of several plats including duck breast (best if ordered medium-rare) + appetizer or dessert for 12 euros. If two people dine, one can order an appetizer and the other a dessert, and share those. Metro Pont Marie. Chef-owner Claude is eye-candy in his own right, but when he presents a creme brulee at your table, he burns the sugared top with a red-hot circular branding iron. Wonderful food-theater!

Restaurant Chartier 7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9th arr., is still (since 1890)a great if noisy place for lunch or dinner. It attracts a mixed crowd of students, professionals, workers and tourists. Main dishes are 8.50 to 13 euros, soup or a green salad 2.20 euros. Inexpensive wine by the glass.

Le Relais d'Entrecote, 20, rue St-Benoit, just north off Blvd. St. Germain des Pres. The 24.50 euros prix fixe offers just one menu item: filet mignon with sauce au poivre + frites+ salade. After a salad of frisee with walnuts, the lean, tender filet is sliced into 10 to 12 pieces, the first 6 served with thi frites. The second sliced portion is kept hot over a side-table chafing dish, and served with more sauce and frites. Service is efficient, impeccable. House wine by the glass 3.80 euros, also available in a pichet.

The Mouffetard area has good-quality prix fixe meals in a series of small cafes on side street to the west, just past Place de la Contrescarpe in the 5th arrondissement. From escargots to beef cheeks, pasta to poisson, always a satisfying meal.

Latin Quarter: why not, never had an awful meal, whether 9 or 12 or 15 euros. I especially like La Harpe, on rue de la Harpe, near Metro St. Michel. Also many Greek-menu restaurants, and a busy falafel cafe that offers a generous serving of meat and frites, often enough for two.

Posted By Patricia Myers on November 20, 2009, 10:01 PM

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