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Here's a Q&A with Eric Wechter, the editor of Fodor's Belize, 4th edition, and Lan Sluder, the author. Wechter is also the Belize expert for Fodor's 80 degrees initiative, an interactive planner for finding a warm-weather escape best suited for your personality.
Why are airfares to Belize so high, and how can we find cheaper flights? Air service is somewhat limited and is mostly from a few hubs in the United States. To find the most affordable flights, stay flexible on your dates, avoid peak holiday travel (around Christmas and Easter), and sign up for Internet specials and e-mail fare alerts on the airlines flying to Belize—currently Continental, American, US Airways, Delta, and TACA. Another option is to fly into Cancún, which usually has good air deals, and bus to Belize.
We want to spend time at the beach and also in the jungle. Where should we go? On a first and relatively brief visit to Belize, sample the best "surf and turf" by splitting your time between one of the popular beach areas—Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker, Hopkins, or Placencia—and the rest in the Cayo, which has the largest concentration of popular mainland activities.
Is Belize a safe place to visit? The best answer is "Yes, but…" Most visitors say they feel quite safe in Belize (except, they say, in some areas of Belize City). Tourist Police patrol areas of Belize City, Placencia, Ambergris Caye, and elsewhere, and many hotels and jungle lodges have security guards. Out of the hundreds of thousands of visitors, the numbers who are victims of any kind of crime is perhaps a few hundred. So, while this is still a developing country, enjoy yourself and follow standard travel precautions: Don't wander into areas that don't feel safe; avoid deserted beaches and streets after dark; and don't flash expensive jewelry or cash. Be aware that there have been a few carjackings and robberies on remote roads or at little-visited parks and Mayan sites; travel in a group or with a guide to less popular places.
Got any tips for visiting the Mayan Ruins? Altun Ha, the ruin closest to Belize City, gets crowds of cruise ship day-trippers; so if you go, try to avoid days when there are several cruise ships in port. On your visit to Tikal (in Guatemala), stay at one of the three lodges at the park if possible—you'll be able to visit the ruins early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when howler monkeys and other animals are active and most day visitors have left.
What about mosquitoes? Pack plenty of bug juice with DEET. Mosquitoes are especially bad around Cerros and at the ruins near Punta Gorda.
How physically fit should I be to enjoy an adventure vacation in Belize? Adventure vacations commonly are split into "soft" and "hard" adventures. Hard adventures, such as strenuous jungle treks and extended caving trips, usually require excellent physical conditioning and previous experience. Most hiking, biking, canoeing-kayaking, cave tubing, snorkeling, brief cave tours, and similar soft adventures can be enjoyed by persons of all ages who are in good health and are accustomed to a reasonable amount of exercise. A little honesty goes a long way—recognize your own level of physical fitness and discuss it with the tour operator before signing on.
I want to try something fun and different, but not too challenging. Any suggestions? An activity you'll find in few places outside Belize is cave tubing. You drift down a river, usually the Caves Branch River in Cayo District, in a large rubber inner tube. At certain points the river goes underground, and you float through eerie underground cave systems, some with Mayan artifacts still in place. The only light is from headlamps.
Where are the best areas for spotting exotic birds? Once you see toucans at Tikal or the hard-to-find motmot in the Cayo, you're sure to get caught up in the excitement of searching for some of Belize's 600 species of birds. Many Belizeans know all their local birds and where the best places are to find them. Crooked Tree, Chan Chich at Gallon Jug, the New River and New River Lagoon near Lamanai, and much of the Toledo District in the Deep South are wonderful areas for bird-watching; keep your eyes peeled to the treetops and don't forget your binoculars.
Of all the incredible outdoor options, what's one experience I shouldn't miss? Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) is more than a caving experience. It's a visit to the Xibalba, the Mayan underworld. You'll see ancient Mayan artifacts and human skeletons. While not cheap (a guided, full-day tour starts at $82, or BZ$160, per person) and requiring a little hiking and swimming, the ATM trip is one-of-a-kind. Many visitors consider it the highlight of their entire Central American experience. Due to the risk of damage to the cave and to the priceless Mayan artifacts there, we're not sure how much longer the Belize government is going to permit access to ATM. Go, while you have the chance. You won't regret it.
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Nice summary Sean. Thanks. We were very impressed with the Mayan ruins at Xunantunich near the Guatemalan border. We stayed at a beach villa in Hopkins Town on the coast south of Dangriga, and were introduced to the Garifuna people and their fabulous culture. The mosquitoes were not a problem, but the man-eating sand fleas of Belize almost did in my father-in-law. We will definitely go back to Belize to see what we missed the first time around.
Posted By Tom B. on January 29, 2010, 4:11 PM
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your comment. Good to hear your trip report. Sounds like you really explored the place instead of just plopped in front of a poolside bar. Good for you! But those man-eating sand flies sound scary!
Best,
Sean
Posted By Blog editor on January 29, 2010, 4:27 PM
Sean and Eric,
In two weeks back in 2000, I had the most wonderful time in Belize.
Several folks told us to get out of Belize City upon landing there, but we stayed a night at a hostel B&B and it was fine. I have a great photo at the exact moment that school let out for the day on a Friday - the streets were suddenly flooded with kids in catholic school uniforms yelling with joy for their weekend to begin. It was pretty cute.
We took a boat to Caye Caulker for a few days of beach and some snorkeling (which at that time was still fun and pretty funky - is it still?) then we headed inland to see ruins and birds.
After a stop at Altan Ha, we headed to Crooked Tree, where we stayed at Sam Tillet's and went birding with Sam and I saw about 50 "life birds" in one day. If you are even remotely into birds, this has got to be a stop on your list. (We had to rent a car to get there, though).
We spent 3-4 days in San Ignacio and did day trips to ruins from there. For those who don't know, San Ignacio is a smallish, very diverse town near the Guatemalan border and a relaxed, fun little community. We stayed in a little birdwatcher's B&B in Santa Elena, the adjacent village. It was from here that we took a day trip to see Tikal, though in hindsight I'd have preferred spend at least one night there. Tikal was amazing. I've been to Calakmul in the southern Yucatan since and nothing can rival that Mayan city at this point in time for its sheer remoteness and wildness, but Tikal was so impressive and enjoyable even with the crowds. It left a lasting impression on me.
Towards the end of our trip we headed towards Dangriga and Hopkins for a few days, and into Cockscomb Basin for some hiking.
One downside for Belize was the food. I'm vegetarian and had rice and beans for every single meal until we got to San Ignacio, where I was ecstatic to find an authentic Chinese retaurant.
Such a fun trip and I'd return now with my family in a second if airfare were cheaper. Thanks for the great suggestion of flying into Cancun, which is occasionally a very cheap flight from where I live in Seattle on Alaska Air. And thanks for the Q&A, Sean! Brings back good memories.
Posted By Lauren on February 1, 2010, 12:11 PM
We have stayed in Ambergris Caye twice and visited Caye Caulker. We have never experienced problems with the criminal element! We stayed both trips at Xanadu (I hesitate to mention it because it's so good and we want to make sure things don't change)! Would go back anytime - love all the trips associated with the visit - especially "Belize Zoo" - small but exotic! Liked being close to San Pedro - rented a golf cart and traveled in for lunch, groceries etc.
Posted By Jill RAnsome on February 1, 2010, 1:29 PM
AIR FLIGHTS_Another route to take for cheaper air fare to Belize is to book with Belize's domestic airline, MAYA ISLAND AIR REGIONAL. They offer connecting flights to Belize from Cancun, San Pedro Sula, and Guatemala city for fairly reasonable rates.
On a hold, excellent article highlighting Belize. I live here and agree Belize is a unique, fun place to visit. (ATM is indeed quite the thrill!) Hope the above tip helps!
Cheers!
Posted By Kayla on February 1, 2010, 1:56 PM
In two weeks, I am leaving for my second trip to Belize. We visited two years ago and loved it enough to return. On our first trip, we split our week by staying three nights on Caye Caulker and three nights outside of San Ignacio, so we got equal beach and jungle time. Unfortunately, on our first day of that trip, we both got horrible sunburns which squelched any plan of snorkeling (curse you, English blood!). So, this time, we are staying six nights on Caye Caulker only and plan on taking full advantage of the magnificent snorkeling.
On our first trip, we saw an amazing abundance of wildlife, especially in the jungle. As a novice birder, seeing a flock of Aracari, a loan Mot-mot and numerous parrots flitting in the jungle canopy, made my heart soar.
We saw other wildlife too, that didn't quite make my heard "soar", although it did make it beat faster: tarantulas, a swarm of killer bees, and lots of bats in the caves.
Anyone interested in reading my blog about this trip can do so here, on Budget Travel's website:
http://mybt.budgettravel.com/_Belize-An-Un-Belize-Able-Vacation-Destination/blog/110107/21864.html
Posted By oldfashiongirl on February 1, 2010, 2:12 PM
I forgot to mention in my previous post that I was able to score an awesome deal on airfare for about $500 from Portland, OR to Belize for the end of February. Was even able to upgrade to first class with miles :)
One thing to keep in mind when booking flights is, if you are going straight away to one of the Cayes, make sure the water taxi is still running when your flight gets in. I believe a lot of them stop running after sunset.
Posted By oldfashiongirl on February 1, 2010, 2:37 PM